Travel with Blueginger: Hakata (博多) / Yufuin (湯布院) / Takachiho (高千穂) & Nagato (長門) 4D3N @ Kyushu, Chūgoku & Kansai.

Continue from Kagoshima where we visited Sakurajima, Nishi-Oyama and Ibusuki.

Our next stop is Hakata - Fukuoka which is 1hr 10min shinkansen ride away from Kagoshima Chuo station.

The Japan Rail (JR) Pass is a special pass valid for unlimited travel on Japan Railways(JR) transportation, including all JR trains (shinkansen “bullet trains” except “NOZOMI” and “MIZUHO” service. limited express trains, express trains and rapid or local trains)*, JR bus company local lines (JR Hokkaido Bus, JR Bus Tohoku, JR Bus Kanto, JR Tokal Bus , West Japan JR Bus, Chugoku JR Bus, JR Kyushu Bus) and the JR Miyajima ferry.

Today we are going to start our 14-days nationwide JR passes. We bought these pass from Singapore at SGD548 per person. The price is not cheap but the average price for Shinkansen per way is already SGD120.00, the price of shinkansen is much expensive than JR ticket. Therefore it is encourage to buy JR passes for tourist. Estimated price for the JR passes - 7 days at SGD344.00 14 days at SGD548.00 21 days at SGD701.00

So it is a good deal to buy these passes afterall! As we activate the pass in Kagoshima, it will stated the city of issuance.

This is another ticket which only the train station staff will issue to you when you reserve a seat, if you did not reserve seat, you still can board the train with your usual ordinary pass, seated at "unreserved" cabins base on free seating..

Hakata (博多)- Fukuoka (福岡)

Fukuoka is Kyushu's largest and one of Japan's 10 most populated cities. As it is strategically located to Asian mainland like China and Korea, Fukuoka had been an important harbour city for many centuries and was chosen by the Mongol invasion forces as their landing point in the 13th century.

Today's Fukuoka is the fusion of of two cities which are the port city of Hakata and the castle town in Fukuoka.

A better understanding : Fukuoka Airport but Hakata Main station

One more interesting fact, there are 2 central in this city which are Hakata and Tenjin. The location of this city is very ideal to us too therefore we chosen Hakata as our base for our on-coming day trips to nearby cities. As time was pretty limited, we did not have the chance to explore this city deeper.

Hello Kitty Café & Shinkansen

Barely just exited from our train, we came across this chic café located at Hakata station.

I can no longer contain my thrills and decided to stop-by for a break with our luggages.

A Hello Kitty bullet train service by JR West will start its service on Sanya Shinkansen line on 30 June 2018. The train will stop at each station between Hakata and Shin-Osaka including Kobe, Okayama and Hiroshima. Like other special shinkansen trains before, it seems that this train will only run for a limited time. We are blessed that we have the opportunity to ride on it and the best part is the cost is covered in my 14 days pass!

Here what it look like in cabin One "Hello Plaza" which is a photo cabin and Hello Kitty retail shop.

You can see Kitty in different costume representing a city.

There is a souvenir shop in Hakata station that selling Hello Kitty merchandise.

Il FORNO de MIGNON croissant

Address : Hakata Station This is very popular here and queues start from as early as 0700 until 2000hrs. They charge by weight so you will get about 17 pieces at JPY1000. Available 3 flavours ; original / chocolate / sweet potatoe

We had tried and tested.. indeed very delicious.

Homestay

This is such a cheery and colourful place that there is even a rooftop balcony in the apartment. Though the walking distance is 20 minutes from Hakata station but luckily there is a bus stop, Domino Pizza, 7-11 and a big drug store that is barely 2 minutes walk away from the apartment.

Zetsumai(舌舞饺子)

Address: 6 Chome-14, Hakataekiminami, Hakata-ku, Fukuoka-ken 8120016 Japan

10 minutes walk from our apartment.

This shop is very famous in Fukuoka. The staff is Chinese and to our surprise that the owner of this restaurant is a Chinese not a Japanese.

They have several selections on the gyozas and I find them tasty. Please do drop by if you are in this area.

I really like this appetiser very much that I bought a box back

Yufuin(湯布院)

The journey from Hakata to Yufuin station is 2 hours.

We were on a super old well maintained train and BF is very happy to experienced it.

Yufuin, a city of Beppu is located on a flat river basin surrounded by mountains. The most prominent feature of Yufuin's skyline is the twin peak of Mount Yufu which hovers over the town and serves as the backdrop for many scenic views.

This is what greeted me upon my exit from the train station.

The area is rural but trendy as there are many interesting shops and café popping out in the recent years and this place is very crowded with tourist too. Onsen is another selling point here in Yufuin, as we are heading to Kinosaki in days time, we skip the onsen here. Almost every ryokan here has an inhosue onsen, if you have the time, it is recommended to stay for a night at least..

However even you do not stay for a night here, there are a lot of foot or hand bath scattered all over the town and they are free to everybody. There is already one at the platform of the train station. Buy ticket at the counter of the main hall.

So what's brought us here today?

1) Yufuin Flora Village

Address: 1503-3. Kawakami, Yufuin-Cho, Yufu city, Oita Perfecture Japan

Only 15 minutes walk from Yufuin station. Once exit from the train station, just walk all the way straight, follow the crowds and it will bring you to the Flora Village.

Along the way, you will be greeted by the interesting retail shops, cool cafes and yummlicious restaurants. These icons made up the Yunotsubo street, which is the main street of Yufuin.

Yufuin Flora Village was so crowded with whimsical air with vintage feel surrounded us as we enter the village. The old English cobblestone atmosphere from Cotswold which was an English area dating back to the Stone Age. Many Harry Potter's scene were filmed in the little stone house here. If you are a fan of Ghibli, there is a Kiki's bakery here to excite you. That signature black cat is also here too.

The stone houses here are shops that are selling soft toys, souvenirs, owl-themed items, mini zoo and a mini owl park too.

Coupled with the rustic charm, the experience was as close as magical. This place is absolutely Instagram worthy !! On the second thought, you will even forget that you are actually in Japan.

The village is not big, you can walk around the entire village within 15 minutes but each shop, there is magic and wonders to entice you to step in.

Here come the mini zoo and the owl park.

There are too many people, I do not have chance to snap more photos.

2) There is also a cat café here - Cheshire Cat Forest

The interior of this café is Alice in the wonderland themed, it housed 13 beautiful cuties that are always ready to meet people. At JPY780, you will get a drink and play with the cats for 30 minutes. Worth to visit!

For those who wish to feel the whimsical of the night here, you may wish to check in to the hotel within the village. But do note that shops close at dusk.

3) Yunotsubo Street - Main street in Yufuin

The moment you exit from the Yufuin Train station, the street right infront is Yunotsubo street. It lead you all the way into Lake Kirin. Along this street, there are many cafes, restaurants, shops and museum. Each shop has it own specialty that they are selling different products, I am amazed that there is no repeated shop here therefore shopping here is pretty interesting even if you are not an avid shopper. I remembered seeing Manga shop, Snoppy shop, Totoro shop and many many more. This little town with rows of endless shop is enough to keep the ladies happy while the plentiful of restaurants and cafes here will definitely keep the men full.

Another great activity not to missed - The architecture of the building here has it own individual colours and designs.

This is our lunch along the street.

Try your best not to miss out any hidden gems hidden inside those small alleys or lanes. Something like this ...

4) Milch Café

Address : 3015, Kawakami Yufuin, Yifu-shi, Oita-cho Japan

At the never ending queues of Pablo cheesecake in Osaka, there is another cheesecake here us Yufuin that is making everyone go wild!

The best product in the house even won an award ! Cup cheesecake which is serve in both hot and cold selling at JPY150 each.

BF ordered a swiss roll at JPY200. Each of us also buy a donut at JPY150 each. Another must try product here is the pudding at LPY380 each. It is consist of caramel, pudding, cheesecake and fresh milk. Hmmmmm well, photos speaks itself.. meant more than I write.

5) Snoopy Tea House

Address : 1524-27 Kawakami, Yufuin, Yufu City Oita Perfecture Japan Located in thes. middle of the main street, this café combines the element of modern café and a traditional teahouse. The café offers matcha dessert and Snoopy shaped rice set while you enjoy the vintage display of comic books, old cartoon.

Next to the café is the merchandiser shop of Peanuts.

Miyakazi(宫崎市)

This city is located on the south eastern coast of Kyushu and the mythical home of the Sun goddness - Amaterasu. Miyazaki also sit on the coast of several rivers, it enjoys the scenic view of the sea and mountain. Today my target for Miyazaki is to visit Mt Aso and Takachiho area. The rest of the attractions occurred on this day trip are additional bonus to us. There is no JR station in Takachiho as it was damaged from a typhoon. Taking a bus from Hakata to Takachiho is a 4hr challenge. I am lucky to get to know Helen, who is a local guide to give us one day tour.

Just a insight that Takachiho is a place that is full of Japanese mythologies. Below attractions are full of interesting stories too.

1) Higo-Ozu station(肥後大津) - off Kumamoto

From Hakata station, it took us 1hr 30min to reach this place where we will be meeting my guide Helen.

The Japanese name of this station is very cute and it happened to be in Chinese words. Take note to those who might be coming here.

This is a small station that I do not see any 7-11 insight within the vicinity of the train station. But there is a supermarket about 15 minutes walk away.

2) Aso-Kuju National Park (阿蘇くじゅう国立公園)

Address: Yamanami Highway, Tano, Kokonoe, Kusu District Oita Perfecture 879-4911

Along the scenic ride, we saw many constructions all over the valleys as government is still repairing the damages done by the typhoon.

Here the repair work are done is slower pace as every time once the repair done, and barely in weeks, it is damaged again.

Aso-Kuju National park is one of the best places in Japan to hike or drive through the dramatic volcanic landscapes and observe active volcanoes.

Mt Aso allows tourist to take a glimpse into her active crater, while Mt Kuju which is the highest mountain in Kyushu attracts hikers from all over the regions for it beautiful network of trails.

When there is volcanoes, naturally there comes the hot spring, they feed some of the country's best onsen town like Kurokawa, Beppu and Yufuin.

3) Takachiho Gorge(高千穂峡)

Address : Mukoyama, Takachiho, Nishiusuki District, Miyazaki Perfecture 882-1103 Japan

This is a V-shaped gorge, created by Gokase River, which eroded the lava of Mt Aso. Red-tinted precipitous cliffs rising up on both sides of the gorge extend for a long distance.

Manai Falls, 17 meters high, is a popular highlight in the gorge. This is because of the clouds of spray that rise up from the falling water.

This beautiful canyon has odd-shaped rocks formed by molten lava and erosion of the cliffs.

The best way to enjoy the gorge and the waterfall is a boat experience followed by a relaxing stroll on the footpath.

Rental of per boat at JPY200 which can take in 3 passengers.

BF first time rowing the boat, I was rather nervous.

The gorge comes along with a 600 meters long walking trails which is decorated with mountain Cherry Blossoms, Japanese Azaleas and Wisteria from spring till early summer. During fall, red and yellow leaves surrounds the gorge. Thus at any time of the season, fine view is rewarded to the visitors.

From the photo here, you can see there are 3 bridges that are so high up. Can tell that the gorge where we were now is very deep down the valley.

Here is the F&B street, which make up of barely a few restaurants. The people here cannot speak any English therefore please be patience as most of them are seniors citizens. Not all restaurants come with English menu to assist so expect hand-signs to be use during the exchange.

There are 2 flowing somen (流水面) restaurants here : Nagashi Somen and Takachiho Somen. We wanted to try Nagashi but it was not open so we went to Takachiho Somen (千穂の家 ) instead. At JPY500 per set, the staff will flow out the somen into the bamboo pipes and you have to catch it with your chopsticks before it flow away. We tried and tested and turn out that the one we had in Ibusuki is much nicer.

We went for round 2 lunch at the next resuarant called Syukudo and Teishoku restaurant(食事処まない).

This is the original brew that using spring water

The food here is very delicious and we had our first taste of coffee made from spring water. Only the original brew is using spring water. Indeed it taste so different than the usual coffee I had.

4) Takachiho Shrine(高千穂神社)

Address: 1037 Mitai, Takachiho Nishiusuki District, Miyazaki Prefecture 882-1101 Japan

Correct way to pray in the shrine:

Bow twice, clap your hands twice, pray and bow one more time.

The clap is to express your joy for this encounter with the deity.

First, Ring the bell two or three times to inform the deity of your presence.

Donate JPY5.00

Takachiho Shrine is the center of many shrines in Takachiho district. Built more than 1200 years ago, Takachiho Shrine stand on the ground where the sun goddess - Amaterasu descended to Earth, This peaceful shrine is surrounded by tall towering Japan Cryptomeria trees and it is said that the oldest one is more than 1000 years old.

The most famous trees in this shrine are the "Couple Trees" named Meotosugi. It is actually 2 gigantic trees growing next to each others and had their roots intertwined with each others after centuries, eventually two become one. There is a saying that a couple to bow and pray and make a wish to Meotosugi then walk around them in clockwise three times while holding hands and you two will be blessed. And Boss and I done it!

This tree is being tied up... It was split into two during a thunderstorm. Locals tied it back together and it continues to live until now. There is another saying, ig you touch the tree, you will be blessed with long life and great health. And we also done it!

Here are our amulets.

6) Amanoiwato Shrine (天岩戸神社) (10 minutes walk from Amanoyasugawara shrine)

According to the legend, Amaterasu the sun goddess was outraged by her brother's cruel prank that she hid herself in a cave called Ama-no-Iwato (heavenly rock cave) which has now become a local shrine, refusing to come and depriving the world of her life-giving sunlight. All other gods and goddesses gathered here trying to lure her out. They tried everything they could think of to no avail idea until one goddess performed a dance that caused other gods to roar with joy and laughter. Amaterasu was curious why everyone are so happy and out of curiousity, she left the cave to see what all the fun was about and in doing so, she returned the sunlight to the world.

7) Amanoyasugawara Shrine 天安河源 (10 minutes walk from Amanoiwato shrine)

Just a short walk from the Amanoiwato Shrine. It is said that 8 million Gods gathered here to find a way of luring the sun goddess Amaterasu from her hiding place called Ama-no-Iwato (heavenly rock cave) to bring back the sunlight.

Once past the entrance where a handful of restaurants and souvenir shops are housed, a narrow path follows along a stream.

The beginning of the path may be a bit of a hike but gets flatter as you reach the stream.
Air is fresh, wave is soothing to ears, this walk is pretty relaxing.

You may notice that human-made stone piles of different heights fill the surroundings. Indeed, back in the 1950s, visitors began to layer stone pieces, with hopes to have their wishes come true. Apparently, stone piles or types of memorials you see in many sacred places in Japan, with either three, five, or seven layers are the most effective.
Therefore along a way, we too each pick up a pebble and we placed it in the shrine when we got there.

4) Kunimigaoka(国見ヶ丘)

Address: Oshikata, Takachiho, Nishiusuki District, Miyazaki Prefecture 882-1102, Japan

This is the place where people come to see unkai (sea of clouds) early in the morning of Autumn. We are here in winter so no unkai for us.

Here is the sample of unkai from the internet.

It is believed to be the place where the first emperor of Japan, Jimmu was born. There is a myth associated with Kunimigaoka Hill. It is said that the grandson of Jimmu - Takwiwatatsu-no-Mikoto once wanted to see the whole land, he went up to the top of this hill and could see the entire country. This is how the hill got its name, Kunimigaoka means "the hill where someone can see the entire country". In the old days, many emperor carried on such practice of climbing the hill to conduct "Kunimi" means gazing down the land and pray for a rich harvest.

The tour end at 1730hrs back at Higo Ozu station where we headed back to Hakata and dinner at Ichinisan Hakata Station.

We first had it in Sapporo last year and we love it very much. Here we chanced upon an outlet here. We will not give it a miss here!

Nagato City (長門市）

Nagato is located on the Western coast of Japan's main island of Honshu,

in the northwest of Yamaguchi Prefecture (山口市).

There are thirteen towns inside of Yamaguchi Prefecture and Nagato is one of them, It is actually made up by five smaller towns which are Senzaki, Yuya, Heki, Misumi and Fukawa. The main station is Nagatoshi station and it is reachable by train.

The main subject is to visit Nagato is Motonosumi Inari Shrine. I saw her picture in a magazine few years back and today since I am in Fukuoka, it is such a golden opportunity to waste.

I tried means and way trying to figure out how to visit this place on free and easy basis. The nearest bus stop to this shrine is 20 minutes walk away. There is no way I am going to walk as we are not sure if there is any curvy roads or traffic conditions.

Even I sent emails to Nagato Taxi service or facebook pages of it tourist office, there is no reply at all. I think native language is preferred here. I was on the verge to give up visiting here until I got a reply from the tourist office through facebook messager. I was told that there is no direct bus service to Motonosumi Inari Shrine.

Going deep into Nagato is a challenge, to visit the attractions, it is strongly encouraged to use a taxi or a rental car. Through Nagato Tourism Convention Association, Ms Akemi assisted me to book a 4 hour taxi at JPY20,000 to bring me around to the places I am keen on. Base on the places I am visiting, my train station is Nagato-Furuichi.

Meanwhile please note that Nagato Tourism Convention Association do offer to help tourist to book round trip taxi service at JPY4000.

Nagato-Furuichi Station（長門古市駅)

This day finally arrives.. we took a shinkansen from Hakata station and change to JR at Asa station then change again at Nagatoshi JR station. The whole journey took us 2.5hrs.

Another humble station that had seen through the times.

I was amazed that there is a sparkling looking Toyota Crown at the gate and the smart looking driver is holding my name on the placard. Beside the driver was the manager of the taxi company who acted as an interpreter between me and the driver. I was told to wait for a moment as Ms Akemi is reaching very soon.

She surprised me even further!! She even joined me during my tour.

1)Motonosumi Inari Shrine(元乃隅稲成神社)

Address: 498 Yuyatsuo, Nagato, Yamaguchi prefecture.

Access: 20 minutes from Nagato Furuichi station (closest station) by car

*There are no station or bus stop within the walking distance. Getting here by car is highly recommended.

Merely 15 minutes scenic ride from Nagato-Furuichi station, Motonosumi Inari Shrine is one of the most beautiful place in Japan. Surrounded with 123 red torii gates and the blue ocean. It has the most amazing feel that you will ask yourself that "such place really exist?"

She stood at the most west edge of the whole Japan and she just appear from the middle of nowhere, she just blended into the nature surrounding.

For the start, we walk through the torii gates up to the shrine. Walking through these 123 torii gates was so fascinating that I felt the sense of spiritual healing of nirvana running down the spine.

At the viewing point of the shrine, I looked on and realised the answers of making Motonosumi Inari Shrine so unique. It is due to the far western location, the breathtaking endless view of the blue sea and being surrounded by thick white cotton candy clouds against the stunning contrast of these 123 red torii gates stretching out from the edge of the cliff.

A legend goes around the construction of the shrine. It is believed that;

A white fox appeared at the bedside of a local fisherman in 1955
“Who do you think you should be thankful to for your successful fishing?” the fox said.
The fox related his story and recounted his relationship to this land.
“You need to have a religious ceremony in this place,” said the fox. The shrine was built after the divine revelation.

Visitors are here to wish for success in business, education, romantic relationship etc.

Beside the stunning scenery I had mentioned above, there is also another interesting one..

Normally at the shrine, a donation box is placed on the ground but at this shrine, the donation box is placed at the top of a five-meter tall torii gate at the entrance of the main approach to the shrine

It is believed that if you successfully throw money into the box, your wishes will come true.

We gave it a try, it indeed is challenging! After a few attempts Boss and BF succeed in throwing in the money into the box.

At the end of our visit to this shrine, we walked down through the torii gates once again. Walking down is different from walking up. When I was walking up, I felt the spiritual healing but when I was walking down I felt the serenity that is welcoming me ahead...

At the end to the 123rd torii gate, the path will lead you to Ryugu no Shiofuki (Dragon Palace Geyser) This is a phenomenon where waves break against a hole in the cliff and the compressed air shoots the water up into the air. It can reach to the height of 30m during the period of Autumn to Winter. The sight of water shoot up resembles a dragon soaring up the sky so this is how the name come about.

Apparently we did not have a chance to see it but I managed to found a photo from the internet.

Beside this Ryugu no Shiofuki, along the cliffs you get a gorgeous view of the ocean. The rocky face of the cliff were being "poked" holes created by corrosion. This is particularly impressive when the waves crash againt the cliff.

I am glad that we make a point to visit this one of the most beautiful and yet mostly unexplored sites in Japan, here we are being rewarded with a fantastic backdrop of ocean and an unforgettable experience.

Unfortunately, there is no public transport access to that point since the path is pretty narrow. If you are not travelling by car, only option would be take a taxi from JR Nagato Furuichi station (approx 20mins/ 2200JPY).

2) Senjojiki (千畳敷)

Address : 1138-1 Heki-naka, Nagato, Yamaguchi Prefecture 759-4402

360 panaromic endless view at the height of 333 metres on a hilltop green meadow. The wind is big, air is cold, waves is loud, grass is fresh.

There is a café, picnic tables, windmill, white torii gate, cliffs, clean restroom, playground and camping ground against the blue ocean, white clouds and green lush grass. Blue + White + Green = Awesome

This place is very relaxing with the sound of waves crashing behind and the chirpings of birds. How I wish I have a dog beside to run about on the grassland.

However, same like Motonsumi Inari Shrine, you can only access to this place by car.

3) Lunch at Country Kitchen

Located in Senjojiki itself, this petite cozy cafe is located on the hill with breathtaking view. It is managed by 2 young hunks. hahhaha

I like the decoration of this café as most of the walls are glass where you can chill while enjoying the wonderful view.

The interior design here is country and cozy.

This is not a big place and usually you have to queue to dine but we are lucky as there is less visitor during winter and the café was almost empty.

There is even a rooftop on this café as well!

The menu offer a wide range from local Japanese food to burger to waffle to coffee to ice-cream.

Price is abit steep but it is well worth. The bread is homemade and they use good ingredient to prepare the dishes and it is delicious!

4) Soreine Café & Coffee (食堂カフェソレイネ)

Address : 5799 Hekikami, Nagato, Yamaguchi Prefecture 759-4401, Japan

5 minutes walk from Nagato-Furuichi station. The outlook of this café is rather standout, unique and modern compared to the rest of the building around which are much traditional feel.