“Lost in a land where tradition meets tomorrow.”
Yanaka
Yanaka is a charming and historically rich neighborhood in Tokyo that offers a rare glimpse into the city’s past. Nestled in the northeastern part of the metropolis near Nippori Station, Yanaka is part of the "Yanesen" area—alongside Nezu and Sendagi—known for its preserved pre-war architecture, narrow alleyways, and deep-rooted artisan culture. Unlike the sleek, modern districts of Tokyo, Yanaka retains a nostalgic "shitamachi" (old downtown) atmosphere, where traditional wooden houses, small temples, and family-run shops line the streets. The area is also famous for its relaxed pace, abundance of cats, and the iconic Yanaka Ginza shopping street, which buzzes with local snacks, crafts, and vintage finds. With over 60 temples and the tranquil Yanaka Cemetery, it’s a haven for quiet strolls, seasonal foliage, and spiritual reflection—making it a favorite among locals and travelers seeking authenticity and calm in the heart of Tokyo.
We begin our day with a visit to Komagome Myogi Shrine (妙義神社), nestled in the quiet Komagome district, not far from Yanaka. This hidden gem holds centuries of history—let’s discover what makes it so unique and revered.
Komagome Station
Such a charming and historically significant stop on Tokyo’s rail network, blending old-world atmosphere with modern convenience.
Komagome Station, located in Tokyo’s Toshima ward, has been serving passengers since its opening on November 15, 1910. Originally part of the Yamanote Line under the Japanese Government Railways, it has evolved into a key transit point connecting both JR East and Tokyo Metro networks. The station was rebuilt after being damaged during World War II and later integrated into JR East following the privatization of Japan’s national railways in 1987.
Komagome Station features a straightforward layout: each line has a single island platform serving two tracks, making transfers smooth and efficient.
Despite its modest size, the station is known for its seasonal azalea blooms and the gentle “Sakura, Sakura” departure melody, adding a poetic touch to daily commutes.
In autumn, the cherry trees that bloom in spring now shed golden leaves, carpeting the wide central lane—Sakura-dori—in warm, rustling layers. The air is crisp, and the light filters through thinning branches in soft, dappled patterns.
Komagome Myogi Shrine 妙義神社
Komagome Myogi Shrine, tucked away in Tokyo’s quiet Komagome district, is a small but spiritually potent Shinto shrine dedicated to Yamato Takeru no Mikoto, a legendary warrior prince revered for his bravery, strength, and triumph over adversity. As the enshrined deity, he is worshipped as a god of victory, courage, and personal success—making this shrine a popular spot for those seeking to overcome challenges, to win in competitions, or gain inner resilience. The shrine’s atmosphere is serene and intimate, with a modern yet respectful design that blends tradition with accessibility.
The White Torii Gate
Before we officially enter to the temple ground via torii gate, it is respectful to give it a bow first.
White torii gates carry a distinct symbolism in Shinto tradition, representing purity, peace, and spiritual clarity. Unlike the more commonly seen vermilion gates, white torii are relatively rare and often found at shrines that emphasize purification or adopt a more contemporary aesthetic. Their clean, minimalist appearance creates a tranquil atmosphere, subtly highlighting the shrine’s unique spiritual focus and setting it apart from more traditional designs. This understated elegance invites visitors into a space of quiet reflection and renewal.
The Water Basin
Almost every Japanese shrine features a water basin known as the “chozuya”, where visitors are expected to perform a brief purification ritual before offering their prayers. This act of cleansing is considered an important gesture of respect and etiquette. The steps are simple: use the ladle to rinse your left hand first, then your right. Next, pour a little water into your left hand to rinse your mouth—without letting the ladle touch your lips. Finally, rinse your left hand once more and return the ladle for the next person.
Benzaiten - The Goddess of Wealth
As I wandered through the shrine grounds, my eyes were drawn to a quiet corner where Benzaiten was enshrined. Revered as the goddess of fortune, water, and music, she carries with her a sense of grace and abundance that has long captivated worshippers. Beyond her associations with eloquence and artistry, Benzaiten is especially celebrated for a unique ritual of prosperity: visitors bring their coins and bills to be gently washed in sacred spring water. This act of purification is believed to invite blessings, ensuring that wealth not only multiplies but flows more harmoniously into one’s life.
Main Hall
Known as the honden—is the sacred heart of the shrine where the enshrined deity, Yamato Takeru no Mikoto, resides. This legendary warrior prince is revered for his courage, resilience, and triumph over adversity, making the shrine a spiritual haven for those seeking strength, success, and protection.
I proceed to offer my prayer after purification: Toss a coin into the box, Bow twice, clap twice and offer my prayer silently.
Bow again once done to complete the ritual.
Sub Shrine of Ota Dokan
A a distinguished figure from the 15th century. Known both as a military commander and a poet, he is most celebrated as the builder of Edo Castle, a legacy that shaped the foundations of modern Tokyo. Revered for his wisdom, strategic brilliance, and protective spirit, Ota Dokan embodies qualities that continue to inspire visitors who seek guidance and strength. His sub-shrine is marked by a distinctive guardian lion-cat statue, a charming symbol that blends local folklore with spiritual guardianship, adding a unique character to the sacred grounds.
"Bad Luck Stone"
For JPY200, you can purchase a “bad luck stone” at the shrine. Take it to the designated stone area on the left side, speak your misfortunes aloud, and wish for them to be released. Then, smash the stone against the larger rock to complete the purification ritual.
If your stone doesn’t break, leave it where it is—picking it up may invite the bad luck back. Likewise, avoid touching broken stones left by others, as they may carry someone else’s misfortune.
Mugi - The Fluffy Shopkeeper
A resident cat calls this shrine home, and I spotted him basking in the morning sun by the shop window, stretched out in perfect contentment. I approached and offered a friendly greeting, met with a slow, indifferent glance that felt more amused than annoyed. He welcomed gentle strokes, but when I playfully tousled the fur on his head, he calmly raised a paw and nudged my hand away—his way of setting boundaries with quiet dignity. It’s clear that soft pets and casual conversation are appreciated, as long as you respect his mellow mood.
I left Komagome Myogi Shrine with a sense of calm and made my way toward Nippori Station, where Nezu Shrine and the nostalgic charm of Yanaka Ginza awaited. On the walk back to Komagome Station, I stumbled upon a small roadside shrine nestled at a busy intersection. Drawn by its quiet presence, I paused to offer a moment of respect.
Komagome Myogizaka Kosodate Jizo-son
As I was walking back toward Komagome Station, I happened to spot a small shrine across the road while waiting at the crossing. The name caught my attention—it mentioned Jizō-san, whom I understand from Chinese tradition as a guardian deity who guides souls in the underworld. I paused to pay my respects to the Buddha and took a moment to observe the shrine’s modest yet heartfelt decorations. A stone statue of a boy and a girl—stood quietly within, their presence tender and poignant. Curious, I looked it up and learned that this shrine is dedicated to Kosodate Jizō, a compassionate figure believed to protect children, especially those who are ill, lost, or unborn. The shrine is said to have been established in 1668 by the Imai family during the Muromachi period, built on the site of their ancestor’s grave as a prayer for the well-being of future generations. Inside, there’s also a memorial stone honoring a boy and a girl who tragically died in a traffic accident in 1933—a quiet reminder of the shrine’s enduring role as a place of remembrance and protection.
Nippori Station
Nippori Station is a bustling yet charming transit hub that connects travelers to both modern conveniences and nostalgic neighborhoods. Serving multiple lines—including the JR Yamanote Line, Keihin-Tohoku Line, Joban Line, the Keisei Line to Narita Airport, and the Nippori-Toneri Liner—it acts as a gateway for commuters and visitors alike. Beyond its practical role, the area surrounding the station retains a warm, old-town atmosphere, with narrow lanes and temples that make it a favorite stop for those seeking a slower, more traditional side of Tokyo while still enjoying easy access to the city’s core.
Yanaka Cemetery
I began with a quiet stroll through Yanaka Cemetery, where time seemed to soften and the air held a hush that made everything feel suspended. The serenity and stillness were so absorbing; I completely forgot to take any photos. The images below are sourced from the internet, standing in for the ones I missed while lost in the moment.
Kayaba Coffee
At Yanaka area, the first place we visit is Kayaba Coffee - This beloved café sits in a beautifully preserved early-1900s wooden house and has been a local icon since 1938. It’s just a short walk from Yanaka Ginza, making it a perfect stop for retro vibes, tatami seating upstairs, and signature treats like omelets, cheesecakes, and their famous egg sandwiches. A true gem for anyone exploring the nostalgic charm of Yanaka.
Walking through an old residential area in Yanaka feels like stepping into a quiet pocket of Tokyo where time has gently slowed.
The streets feel intimate but open, like a place where stories live in the cracks of the pavement and the tilt of a mailbox.
There’s a sense of gentle continuity—of generations layered in the architecture, the gardens, the handwritten signs on shuttered shops.
Nezu Shrine
One of the city’s oldest and most enchanting Shinto shrines, with roots tracing back over 1,900 years, the shrine was relocated to its current site in 1705 by Tokugawa Tsunayoshi, the fifth shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty. Remarkably, Nezu Shrine did survive both the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 and the World War II air raids that devastated much of Tokyo. This resilience makes it one of the few places in the city where you can still experience authentic Edo-period architecture in its original form. Structures like the Romon gate, honden (main hall), and haiden (worship hall), all built in 1706, remain intact and are designated Important Cultural Properties. Their survival through such catastrophic events adds a profound layer of historical and spiritual significance to the shrine.
As I walked along the sacred path and the view opened before me, this sight appeared—and in that instant, a wave of ecstasy washed over me.
The Shrine Bridge Gosenza
It was constructed to commemorate the 300th anniversary of the enshrinement. Beneath the bridge flows a quiet river, its waters shimmering with graceful, colorful koi.
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| This photo is from internet. |
Romon Gate aka Tower Gate
Built in 1706, the Romon Gate at Nezu Shrine is a magnificent two-story entrance that stands as one of Tokyo’s rare surviving examples of Edo-period shrine architecture. It survived both the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 and the World War II air raids2. This makes it one of Tokyo’s rare architectural treasures from the Edo period that remains intact in its original form.
Kagura Performance Stage
The shrine’s traditional kagura performance, known as Sanza no Mai, which is designated as an intangible cultural asset of the shrine.
Ancient Tree
There is a sign next to the tree stated, "National Treasure", I reckoned it meant the tall Camphor tree beside.
Here is Nezu shrine, you can see that there are many similar old trees around.
Washing Basin aka Chosuya
This is a traditional purification fountain found at the entrance of Shinto shrines Visitors use it to perform a cleansing ritual before approaching the sacred areas.
Worshippers rinse their hands and mouth using ladles provided at the basin. This act symbolizes purification of body and spirit before prayer.
Karamon Gate
The original structure built in 1706, and it has survived both the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 and the World War II bombings. This ornate gate features a distinctive curved gable roof in the Chinese style, richly adorned with intricate wood carvings and gold leaf accents. Its survival through multiple disasters makes it not only a visual centerpiece but also a powerful symbol of resilience, heritage, and spiritual continuity. Today, it stands as one of the few remaining original structures from the Edo era, offering visitors a rare and authentic glimpse into Tokyo’s architectural and religious history.
Honden (Main Hall)
Another original structure built in 1706, and it has survived both the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 and the World War II bombings, it is part of a rare collection of Edo-period architecture that remains intact in Tokyo.
Inside, the honden enshrines Susanoo-no-Mikoto, the Shinto deity of storms and the sea, and is considered the most sacred space within the shrine complex.
It is well surrounded by giant trees that look ancient to me.
“Extraordinary!”
As I stepped out through the west gate, this view unfolded before me—a striking cascade of red torii gates climbing the hillside, each one framing the next like a rhythmic procession into the sacred. Nestled among lush greenery, the shrine’s vermilion and white structure glowed softly in the afternoon light, its curved roof peeking through the trees like a quiet guardian. Neatly trimmed bushes lined the path, and the air felt still, reverent, as if the landscape itself were holding its breath. It was a moment of serene contrast—vivid color against gentle foliage, tradition rising through nature.
Staircases after this torii gate are often built after a torii gate to emphasize the transition from the everyday world into the sacred realm. Passing through the torii marks entry into holy space and ascending the steps symbolizes both physical and spiritual elevation—drawing visitors closer to the gods. Many shrines are also located on hillsides or elevated ground, so the stairs serve a practical purpose while reinforcing the sense of reverence and anticipation before reaching the main sanctuary.
Standing on the platform infront, I got the chance to snap the river.
The path led me to a quiet corner where a wash basin is seen, there must be a shrine here... Since our paths meet, I decided to purify myself and offer my respect.
Next stop: Yanaka Ginza...
The Red Torii Gates Tunnel
Nezu Shrine features a captivating Red Torii Gates Tunnel that winds its way up a gentle hillside, creating one of Tokyo’s most photogenic and spiritually immersive experiences. This tunnel, made up of tightly spaced vermilion torii gates, leads to the smaller Otome Inari Shrine nestled within the shrine grounds. As you walk through, the vivid red gates form a rhythmic corridor of light and shadow, evoking a sense of quiet reverence and timeless tradition. Though smaller in scale than Kyoto’s famous Fushimi Inari, Nezu’s torii tunnel offers a more intimate and serene atmosphere, often accompanied by the soft rustle of leaves and the distant sound of koi splashing in nearby ponds.
White Torii Gate
There’s a break in the tunnel of red torii gates, and through that gap, a white torii gate comes into view. I pause, drawn by its quiet presence, and as I step closer, I sense that this pale gate marks a sacred memorial—set apart, serene, and significant - Tokugawa Lenobu’s Placenta Mound.
Tokugawa Lenobu’s Placenta Mound
This site stands on the grounds of what was once the secondary residence of Tokugawa Tsunashige. It was here that his son, Tokunaga Tsunatoyo—later known as the sixth shogun, Tokugawa Ienobu—was born. The mound enshrines the placenta from Lenobu’s birth, preserved as a sacred memorial.
The tunnel of torii gates leads onward to the next sacred site.
Otome Inari Shrine
Founded in 1706, it was built alongside Nezu Shrine during the Edo period and carries a unique spiritual identity centered around femininity, nurturing, and
romantic blessings. The name "Otome" (乙女) means "maiden" or "young woman," and the shrine is dedicated to Kurainatomi-no-Mikoto, a female deity associated with fertility, harvest, and emotional well-being.
Historically, Otome Inari held deep significance for the women of the Nezu area, including those who worked in the local brothels during the Edo period. They would come to pray for protection, prosperity, and love, making the shrine a quiet but powerful spiritual refuge for women. Today, it remains a popular spot for those seeking blessings in relationships and emotional clarity.
Koshin-to
This stone monument is linked to a popular folk belief from the Edo period. On the night of Koshin—a specific day in the traditional calendar—people would gather and stay awake until morning, following a custom rooted in spiritual vigilance. Towers like this were often erected at crossroads and village paths as part of the practice. This particular one was relocated to Nezu Shrine during road expansion works.
Komagome Inari Shrine
Before Nezu Shrine was relocated from Sendagi Village, this site served as the secondary residence of Tokugawa Tsunashige, the Lord of Kōfu. Komagome Inari was the guardian deity of the estate at that time. The roof still bears the crest of the Tokugawa clan.
Komagome Inari Shrine at Nezu Shrine dates back to the mid-1600s, making it over 350 years old. When Nezu Shrine was moved to this location in 1706, Komagome Inari remained, preserving its earlier legacy.
After spending a few minutes goggled about this shrine, I went to clean myself at the wash basin and walk toward the shrine where I toss a ¥5 coin into the offering box, bow twice, clap twice, and silently make my wish. Afterward, I bow once more and step away for a perfect photo shot.
I find the entire compound utterly mesmerizing. Though it rests quietly in a tucked-away corner, it carries an atmosphere that feels almost timeless—quiet, serene, and profoundly calm. The stillness of the space seems to embrace you as soon as you step inside, inviting a slower pace and gentle reflection. Its hidden placement only adds to the sense of discovery, as if you’ve stumbled upon a secret sanctuary where the bustle of the outside world fades away. In that moment, the harmony of silence, subtle beauty, and sacred presence makes the compound feel like a place set apart, designed for peace and contemplation.
The North Gate
I wandered on, descending gently from the quiet corner where Komagome Inari Shrine rests. The path curved and led me toward the north gate, as if the shrine itself were softly signaling that my visit had come full circle. I had absorbed all the calm and positive energy I needed, and now it felt right to step forward—rested, recharged, and ready for the next chapter of the journey.
Map
Here’s a map of Nezu Shrine to help you better appreciate the layout and beauty of this remarkable place. Nestled in the heart of Tokyo, Nezu Shrine offers more than just architectural elegance—it’s a sanctuary of history, craftsmanship, and quiet reflection. Whether you're drawn to its vivid torii gates, Edo-period structures, or tranquil garden paths, it’s an ideal destination to step away from the rush of daily life. Surrounded by nature and spiritual charm, it’s a place where you can pause, breathe deeply, and recharge with a sense of calm and positive energy.
Yanaka Ginza is a charming, 170-meter-long shopping street nestled in Tokyo’s historic Yanaka district, known for preserving the nostalgic spirit of the city’s pre-war shitamachi (downtown) culture. The street began to flourish during the early Showa era (1926–1989), though the surrounding neighborhood traces its roots back to the Edo period. Remarkably, Yanaka Ginza survived both the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 and the World War II bombings, which left much of Tokyo in ruins.
As a result, it retains a rare authenticity, with several shops and homes still housed in original wooden structures that have been lovingly maintained by generations of local families.
Cat Town
Yanaka Ginza has earned the endearing nickname “Cat Town”, and it’s not just because of its feline-themed souvenirs. The area is home to a visible and friendly population of stray cats that wander through its peaceful alleys, temple courtyards, and the serene grounds of nearby Yanaka Cemetery. With its leafy streets, quiet shrines, and slow-paced atmosphere, the neighborhood offers an ideal habitat for cats—and the locals have warmly welcomed their presence.
As you stroll through, you’ll notice whimsical cat statues, snacks shaped like lucky cats (maneki-neko), and shops brimming with feline-inspired goods, from trinkets to tail-shaped pastries. Some store owners even provide cozy shelters or leave out water for their furry visitors, though feeding them is generally discouraged. The cats tend to shy away from crowds, but if you visit during quieter hours—especially in the morning or late afternoon—you might catch them basking on stone steps, rooftops, or nestled in shaded corners, adding a touch of living charm to this nostalgic Tokyo street.
Niku no Sato
A beloved butcher shop located along Yanaka Ginza, known for its freshly prepared meat dishes and nostalgic charm has been serving the residents for several decades contributing to the post-war revival of the area.
It’s especially famous for its handmade menchi-katsu—a juicy, deep-fried minced meat cutlet that draws long lines of locals and tourists alike. The shop embodies the spirit of shitamachi Tokyo, where family-run businesses have operated for generations, often in the same location and structure. Niku no Sato’s enduring popularity and traditional storefront reflect the resilience and continuity of Yanaka Ginza itself, which survived both the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 and World War II bombings, preserving its pre-war atmosphere. Today, the shop stands as a culinary landmark, offering a taste of old Tokyo with every bite. it
Apparently, the cutlets are already sold out, and the new batch is still in process. I move on then...
Niku no Suzuki
Tucked into the nostalgic charm of Yanaka Ginza, Niku no Suzuki is a long-standing favorite—a butcher shop and street food stall that has delighted locals and visitors alike since its founding in 1930. This family-run establishment blends generations of traditional meat craftsmanship with the irresistible appeal of freshly fried snacks. While it continues to offer raw meats and deli-style prepared foods for neighborhood households, its street-facing display case tempts passersby with a variety of golden, deep-fried treats. Chief among them is the legendary menchi-katsu—a juicy minced meat cutlet, crisp on the outside and tender within. This signature snack has earned the shop a devoted following, often sparking queues of eager customers drawn by its savory aroma and satisfying crunch.
Yanaka Shippoya - pastry shop for cat tail doughnut
This is a delightful pastry shop located along the nostalgic Yanaka Ginza shopping street in Tokyo, known for its whimsical and cat-themed treats. The shop opened in 2013, making it a relatively new addition to the historic neighborhood, yet it has quickly become a local favorite thanks to its playful concept and delicious offerings. “Shippoya” means “tail shop,” and true to its name, the store specializes in tail-shaped donuts inspired by the many cats that roam the Yanaka area—earning it a place in the heart of what’s affectionately called “Cat Town.” Each donut is crafted with care, featuring flavors like custard, chocolate, and seasonal varieties, all shaped like curled feline tails. Though the shop doesn’t date back to the Edo or Showa eras like some of its neighbors, it embraces the spirit of Yanaka by blending creativity with community charm.
I joined the queue and picked up a matcha-flavored one to try. Honestly, while its appearance was charming, the flavor didn’t leave much of an impression—it looked better than it tasted.
Komichi Ice-cream Shop
This dessert shop, officially known as Komichi Tanaka Ginza Ten, is a cozy soft-serve spot tucked away in the nostalgic Yanaka Ginza shopping street in Tokyo. Though relatively new compared to its historic neighbors, Komichi opened its doors on May 23, 2022, and has quickly become a local favorite for its creamy, artisanal ice cream served in a charming, minimalist setting.
Yanaka Ginza Yūyake Dandan (landmark stairs as the start of the street)
Yūyake Dandan, meaning “Sunset Staircase,” is the iconic entrance to Yanaka Ginza, offering one of the most picturesque views in Tokyo’s historic shitamachi district. The staircase became a beloved local landmark in the post-war Showa era, likely around the 1940s to 1950s, when the Yanaka Ginza shopping street began to flourish as a community hub. Yūyake Dandan earned its name from the breathtaking sunsets visible from its top—casting a golden glow over the retro storefronts and narrow alleys below. The stairs not only serve as a physical gateway but also a symbolic threshold into a slower, nostalgic Tokyo that survived both the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 and World War II bombings.
And just like that, we’ve arrived at the final stop on this blog journey—thank you so much for walking alongside me through every story, snapshot, and sensory moment. If you’d like to continue exploring, I’ve gathered links to my other posts from this trip below. Each one offers a different glimpse into the places, flavors, and feelings that made this adventure unforgettable:
In the meantime, I’d love to share a few reflections from our earlier journeys through Japan. Below you’ll find links to blog posts from past trips—each one capturing a different slice of the country’s charm, from quiet shrines to bustling street corners.
It would mean so much if you had a moment to dive into a few more of the unforgettable adventures we've shared. Each one holds its own story, waiting to be rediscovered.
You're warmly invited to explore my other travel blogs, featuring adventures across France, Japan, China, Thailand, Malaysia, and even a few unforgettable cruises.
Our upcoming travel adventures will take us to the vibrant landscapes of China and the captivating charm of Taiwan. We’ll be sharing stories, sights, and discoveries from both destinations very soon—so stay tuned and journey with us!
To stay connected and catch the latest updates, feel free to follow me on social media: Facebook page: followblueginger, Instagram page : followblueginger , TikTok page: bluegingerkaren and Tumblr page :followblueginger.
Thanks for being part of the journey!
"I travel because seeing photos in books and brochures was not good enough for me, To be there, that was everything"
