“The city moves like a whisper and roars like a storm—sometimes in the same breath.”
Tokyo
Returning to Tokyo feels like slipping into a familiar rhythm — the hum of the trains, the neon pulse of the towns, the comforting chaos that somehow always makes sense. But this time, there’s a quiet thrill in the air. Beyond the usual haunts, the plan is to peel back the layers and wander into the city’s lesser-known corners — the alleys that don’t make it into guidebooks, the sleepy neighborhoods where time moves slower, and the retro cafés where locals linger over siphon coffee. There’s a sense of discovery, not just of places, but of Tokyo’s quieter soul — the one tucked behind vending machines and faded noren curtains. It’s no longer just about sightseeing; it’s about feeling the city breathe in places where tourists rarely tread.
October is one of the best months to explore Tokyo — the summer heat fades, the skies clear, and the city dresses itself in autumn hues and festive charm.
The moment we step off the plane, the air feels different — not just in temperature, but in rhythm. There’s a quiet hum to Narita Airport, a kind of poised efficiency that feels like Japan itself.
We walk through the corridor, past signs in soft blues and whites, and approach the customs counter.
The officer glances at my passport, then smiles gently and says, “Welcome to Japan again,” as he pastes the new sticker beside last month’s entry. It’s a small gesture, but it lands like a spark — a warm, affirming echo that this trip is not just a return, but a continuation. My heart lifts, I am not just visiting; I am re-entering a story.
At the luggage belt, the scene is almost poetic. Each suitcase is tidily arranged with its handle facing up, as if placed by invisible hands that care about each traveler's comfort.
We spot ours easily, lift it with no fuss, and feel a quiet admiration for the staff who made this moment smooth and graceful.
Then comes the final threshold: the exit from the transit area, behind this gate is the arrivals hall, and the trip truly begins here. The world outside is waiting — vending machines, train maps, the scent of convenience store oden, and the promise of neon nights and shrine mornings.
We are here. Again. And everything feels possible.
Each ticket to Keisei Ueno Station costs ¥2,500 one way.
Ueno
We’re staying near Yushima Station in Ueno — a perfect base for exploring Tokyo. Just steps away is Ameyokocho, a lively market street buzzing with food stalls and vintage shops, tucked beneath the train tracks. Mornings begin with the quiet charm of retro cafés, and within minutes, we’re swept into the vibrant pulse of the city. Ueno offers that rare balance of convenience and character, with easy access to Narita Airport, the Shinkansen, and key subway lines. But what keeps us coming back is its spirit: the seasonal beauty of Ueno Park, the nostalgic warmth of old soba shops, and the gentle magic of a neighborhood that always feels like home.
In this blog, I will share everything we explore and encounter of in this wonderful region of Ueno.
Sushi Tsune
Actually, we wanted to eat Ichiran but the queue was super long and we were so hungry thus, we decided to skip for another alternative where we chanced by Sushi Tsune, which is a beloved Edo-style sushi restaurant located on the 2nd floor of Atre Ueno, directly connected to JR Ueno Station.
This is a beautifully plated autumn-themed sashimi appetizer from Sushi Tsune,
The plate design features maple leaves and bamboo, evoking the autumn season. This kind of presentation is typical of Japanese culinary aesthetics, where visual harmony and seasonal cues are just as important as taste.
-Amaebi (sweet shrimp) served whole with its head intact—rich, creamy, and slightly briny, often considered a delicacy in cooler months.
-Tuna in pale pink slices with marbled fat, offering a buttery texture and mild flavor.
-Sea breams are translucent and clean-tasting, often served in autumn for its delicate sweetness.
Wasabi and shredded daikon—classic accompaniments that cleanse the palate and highlight the freshness of the fish.
This platter is a visual symphony of sushi—each piece a miniature sculpture of color, texture, and tradition.
Whether sea urchin, sea bream, tuna or salmon is a quiet celebration of purity and precision—each slice a testament to the sea’s generosity and the chef’s restraint. Arranged with elegant simplicity, the sashimi glistens under soft light, revealing subtle gradations of color and texture.
Each piece is laid with intention: no rice, no distraction—just the raw essence of the sea. A bed of shredded daikon and a sprig of shiso leaf offer contrast and refreshment, while a small dish of soy and a dab of wasabi wait quietly at the side, ready to accent but never overwhelm.
A sea urchin gunkan platter is a golden tide of indulgence—each piece a small vessel cradling the ocean’s richest whisper. The gunkan, or “battleship” style, wraps a band of crisp nori around a mound of sushi rice, forming a cradle for the uni (sea urchin) to rest in its raw, unadorned glory. ts texture is creamy, almost custard-like, and it glistens with a natural sheen that signals freshness. The flavor is unmistakable: briny yet sweet, with a lingering umami that evokes sea foam, kelp, and the hush of deep water. When fresh, it’s never fishy—just clean, rich, and slightly floral, like the memory of a tidepool at dusk.
It’s a quiet luxury, best enjoyed slowly, with minimal soy—just enough to frame the flavor, never drown it. Each bite is a soft collapse of texture and taste, a moment where the sea folds into silence.
Doutor Coffee
Dragging two large suitcases through Ueno, we quickly realized how tricky it was to find a café on ground level. Most places were tucked away on upper floors, squeezed into narrow corners, or already packed with people. Navigating stairs or tight spaces with bulky luggage felt more like a puzzle than a pause. Just as the drizzle began to fall, we spotted a Doutor Coffee — spacious enough, street-level, and blissfully uncrowded.
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| This photo is from goggle. |
It was exactly what we needed. We stepped inside, grateful for the shelter and the calm, and treated ourselves to a warm cup of coffee and a slice of cake each. In that moment, it wasn’t just a café — it was a quiet refuge, a soft landing in the middle of our journey.
Our Accommodation
Most hotels in this area offer rooms barely larger than 13 square meters at around SGD250 per night, so we decided to book a 30-square-meter apartment online instead at around the same price.
This stylish, fully furnished apartment in Tokyo’s Yushima neighborhood offers a comfortable and spacious alternative to typical budget hotel rooms.
Just a short walk from Ueno Park and Yushima Station, it’s ideal for travelers seeking independence and a bit more breathing room.
Unayoi
Our first official dinner in Tokyo! After wandering through the charming streets of Yanaka Ginza, we’ve made our way back to Ueno for a delicious evening meal.
This is a creative unagi izakaya nestled just 30 seconds from Okachimachi Station in Tokyo’s Ueno district. Known as "うなよい" in google map, this stylish spot blends tradition with playful innovation, offering a menu that reimagines eel cuisine with flair.
The space itself is intimate and warmly lit, wrapped in wood tones that invite lingering conversations and relaxed gatherings. Flavors lean bold and savory, with comforting depth and the occasional surprise — a delicious blend of Edo-era tradition and contemporary izakaya creativity.
Although the space is modest and tucked away, there’s something about it that instantly won us over. The atmosphere, the flavors, the quiet charm — it all came together so effortlessly that we found ourselves returning for a second dinner. It wasn’t just about convenience; it was the kind of place that lingered in our minds long after the first meal, drawing us back with the promise of comfort and familiarity. Small in size, yes — but big in heart.
The First Sights
After finishing dinner, we took our time strolling back toward our accommodation, letting the evening unfold at its own gentle pace.
Renoir Cafe
After a full day exploring the quiet charm of Setagaya Ward, we returned to our home base in Ueno — a familiar, comforting way to close out the day’s adventures.
As we were still early for dinner, we went for a high tea session here in a cozy cafe.
The Renoir Café brand—officially known as Ginza Renoir (銀座ルノアール)—was founded in 1964, Originally started by a senbei (rice cracker) company branching
into the coffee business, Renoir evolved into a chain of urban kissaten-style cafés known for their spacious seating, quiet ambiance, and blend of Showa nostalgia with modern convenience.
Located just a minute’s walk from JR Okachimachi Station’s South Exit, it occupies the second floor of the Jujin Tower, offering a calm retreat above the bustle of Ueno’s shopping streets. Ordering is done directly with the staff—no ticket machines—making the experience feel personal and relaxed.
The atmosphere is quiet and professional, ideal for business meetings, solo reading, or a gentle pause between errands. With free Wi-Fi, power outlets, and multilingual menus, it’s a thoughtful blend of Showa and modern convenience.
I have always appreciated how, in Japan, you’re typically greeted with a glass of water and a fresh wet towel the moment you’re seated—it’s such a simple, thoughtful gesture that sets the tone for the meal.
The familiar ambiance welcomed us like an old friend: soft lighting, quiet chatter, and the comforting clink of porcelain cups.
The third time was all about the cheesecake — irresistible and worth the detour.
And on the fourth visit, I came alone, drawn back by the quiet comfort and familiarity that had already made this place feel like a small part of my Tokyo story.
On a rainy afternoon in Tokyo, I slipped quietly into Ginza Renoir — alone, unhurried, and craving warmth. The city outside was slick with drizzle, umbrellas bobbing like petals in motion, but inside Renoir, time seemed to soften. Plush seats, soft lighting, and the gentle clink of porcelain cups created a cocoon of calm. I ordered a pot of hot tea, and as the steam curled upward, it felt like the perfect antidote to the damp chill outside.
Torafugutei
It’s fugu season, typically September to February. and Torafugutei is one of Tokyo’s most accessible and trusted destinations for enjoying this delicacy. Established in 1996, Torafugutei specializes in tora-fugu (tiger blowfish), offering a full-course experience that’s both refined and approachable.
Service is professional and attentive, with trained chefs licensed to prepare fugu safely, and many branches have live fugu tanks to showcase freshness. Whether you're a first-timer or a seasoned fan, Torafugutei offers a safe, flavorful, and seasonal way to savor Japan’s most famous winter delicacy. Come on, It’s fugu season!
But what truly caught my attention was on the second glance: the muscles still showed faint reflexes, a twitch here and there, as if echoing the freshness of its preparation. It was a startling, visceral reminder of how immediate and precise the handling had been — a dish that felt alive in more ways than one.
The pieces were grilled just enough to coax out flavor while preserving the delicate texture unique to fugu.
Each bite offered a gentle smokiness, balanced by the natural umami of the fish — tender, clean, and quietly rich.
The hotpot, presented in a bamboo basket lined with crisp white paper, folded like mountain peaks. At the center sat a perforated metal plate, ready to cradle the delicate ingredients as they are gently cooked.
A beautifully arranged platter of fugu meat and fresh vegetables was brought to the table — and once again, I caught sight of the fish’s muscles subtly twitching. It was a quiet, startling reminder of just how fresh the preparation truly was. And we begin our hotpotting with anticipation.
Right outside the police kōban, these public notice boards serve as a striking reminder of Japan’s commitment to community safety and transparency. They display wanted persons names, nature of the crime like murder and reward amounts, ranging from 600,000 to 800,000 yen for information leading to their capture. It offer both vigilance and public awareness.
Whether you're grabbing a quick breakfast, enjoying a quiet afternoon coffee, or escaping the rush of Ueno, Café de Crié offers a dependable and pleasant retreat.
With three large bags in tow, I chose the medium-sized locker, which cost ¥600.
I will need this receipt—and the QR code on it—when retrieving my belongings later. Be sure not to lose it.
Service is brisk, cash-only, and no reservations are accepted. The menu is a kissaten classic: chocolate parfaits, cream sodas, omurice, beef stew, and pizza toast. Must-try items include the vivid green melon cream soda, the chocolate parfait with mikan, and the house brewed coffee for purists.
Whether you’re pausing between museum visits or seeking a sweet escape from the city’s rush, Galant offers a sparkling slice of Tokyo’s retro soul.
Today is my first visit and I’m here with Akari, my son’s girlfriend and a true-blue Japanese soul, and along with her is her mummy - Yumiko. We are glad to share the wonderful moment bonding together in a café steeped in Showa charm. The Kissaten glimmer of the space—mirrored walls, soft booths, and gentle nostalgia—makes conversation flow easily, turning small talk into genuine connection. It’s the kind of place where time slows down just enough for us to enjoy being together, no pressure, just warmth and a little magic.
Personally, I have grown quite fond of Coffeeshop Galant—it has a quiet charm that truly resonates with me. From its retro ambiance to the comforting depth of its coffee, everything about it feels like a gentle step back in time. I’m certain I will be returning again during my stay in Tokyo, if only to soak in that nostalgic atmosphere once more.
The café buzzed with soft retro music and cheerful Japanese voices, wrapping me in a gentle hum of warmth.
I let my thoughts drift, gazing at neon flickers and the glow within — dazing, daydreaming, simply savoring a rare moment of stillness.
Sipping this coffee feels like stepping into a time capsule: the chandeliers, velvet seats, and Showa pop music create a cinematic backdrop for a brew that’s unapologetically old-school. It’s not about latte art or single-origin beans—it’s about atmosphere, ritual, and the kind of coffee that invites you to linger.
The egg sando is a retro comfort classic — thick, crustless white bread filled with smooth, mellow egg salad blended with Japanese mayo. Subtly sweet and tangy, it’s served simply, evoking a quiet nostalgia that fits perfectly with the café’s Showa-era charm.
The name “Ameyoko” is short for “Ameya Yokocho,” which originally referred to candy shops (“ame”) and the alleyways (“yokocho”) that sprang up here after World War II.
Today, the area is made up of two main streets: Ameyoko Shopping Street on the left side of the Ameyoko Center Building, and Uechun Shopping Street on the right.
Together, they form a lively maze of retail and food stalls tucked under the elevated train tracks, where you’ll hear vendors calling out deals and see locals and tourists alike haggling over prices—a rare sight in Tokyo.
It’s not just a place to shop; it’s a living slice of Tokyo’s downtown spirit, full of energy, nostalgia, and irresistible bargains.
We are here to help my mum add to her Hard Rock T-shirt collection!
Payment is flexible—credit cards, IC cards, and QR codes are accepted. With its vibrant atmosphere, generous portions, and variety-driven menu, Stamina Taro NEXT offers a fun, affordable way to feast in the heart of Ueno.
Wonderful dinner with Akari was a quiet celebration wrapped in warmth and laughter. The three of us wandered through the spread like curious travelers—sampling, sharing, and delighting in unexpected flavors. My MR’s eyes lit up at the roast carving station, Akari giggled over the tiny dessert glasses, and I found joy in watching them bond over second helpings and silly food trivia.
The buffet offered its own rhythm—plates filled and refilled, flavors discovered and shared—but the real richness came from the company. Akari’s presence brought a quiet sparkle, and my husband’s easy laughter added warmth to every bite. We lingered over desserts, not because we were hungry, but because the moment felt too lovely to end. There was no script, no expectations—just the soft joy of being together, savoring not just the food, but the feeling of connection that grew with each passing plate.
The café is simple and cozy, with a quiet charm that makes it easy to return to.
On my second visit, we came together for breakfast — a gentle start to the day in a space that feels both familiar and unpretentious.
The atmosphere is casual and efficient. Staff greet you with speed and precision, and within minutes of ordering, steaming plates of gyoza arrive at your table.
The star attraction is the Panda Yaki, a bite-sized castella filled with sweet fillings like red bean paste, custard cream, chocolate, and seasonal flavors such as matcha or sweet potato.
We bought 12 at JPY600 with mixtures of caramel & chocolate.
Though, it tastes like normal castella cake to us but it is good for casual bites
The doors open at 5pm, and I arrived five minutes early, already fifth in line. Thankfully, the place was still empty, so getting a table wasn’t an issue. The system is straightforward: no reservations, cash only, and you place your order before being shown to your seat. Service is brisk but friendly, and the menu is refreshingly simple.
The layout is compact but well-organized: a 9-seat counter on the first floor for solo diners, and table seating upstairs for pairs and small groups. The atmosphere is clean, fast-paced, and no-frills, with a steady stream of customers and quick turnover.
While waiting, I couldn’t help snapping a photo of the next table — they had the seasonal gem: the fried oyster set, available from October through winter. Each oyster is plump and briny, wrapped in a golden panko crust that crackles with every bite. A true cold-weather indulgence.
Highlights are the loin cutlet set for just ¥900 to ¥1,400 — both excellent values. I ordered two loin sets, adding a deep-fried shrimp for him and a deep-fried horse mackerel for myself.
And then came our sets — each one served with fluffy rice, miso soup, and pickles. The cutlets were beautifully crisp on the outside, juicy within, and the rice was impressively well-cooked, each grain distinct and satisfying.
It’s no wonder Tonkatsu Yamabe consistently ranks among Tabelog’s Top 100 Tonkatsu Restaurants — a must-visit for anyone chasing authentic, high-quality tonkatsu in Tokyo.
The setup is simple and efficient — shelves display over 60 individually wrapped dishes, from karaage and grilled fish to potato salad and simmered vegetables. Diners grab a tray, select their favorites, and bring them to the counter, where staff warm the dishes and serve rice and miso soup. Each item is clearly marked with pricing and nutritional details, making it easy to tailor your meal to both taste and budget. The space is bright and roomy, with non-smoking hours during lunch. Popular picks include hearty tonkatsu, fresh sashimi, and brown rice for those watching their health. It’s a go-to spot for both early mornings and late-night cravings, with even all-you-can-eat options available.
From the layout of the place, I assume it must be decades long, it has become a local favorite for its flexible, self-service dining model—something surprisingly rare in Japan. Diners get to choose the dishes from the food shelves, and the staff will heat them up and deliver to the table.
A self-service drink station offers diners unlimited refills, with the option to choose between chilled water and matcha. It’s a convenient setup—just place your cup beneath the dispenser and press the button for your preferred drink. Simple, efficient, and perfect for a refreshing pause during the meal.
Everything looked too good to resist — we ended up choosing a generous spread and indulged in a seriously hearty breakfast.
PS: Rice isn’t just a side dish in a Japanese breakfast — it’s the heart of the meal. A traditional washoku-style breakfast centers on harmony, simplicity, and seasonal flavors, with rice taking the lead. This style of breakfast is still lovingly served at ryokan inns, classic eateries, and in some homes, especially on weekends or special occasions. Though modern mornings may feature toast, yogurt, or coffee, the rice-based breakfast continues to be a cherished tradition, offering comfort, nourishment, and a gentle start to the day.
The restaurant features around 40 seats in a relaxed, modern setting with soft lighting and spacious tables—ideal for small gatherings, family meals, or casual dates.
While buffet and set options were available, we went with à la carte for more flexibility.
For the soup base, we chose one spicy and one plain.
The muscles still twitching — a subtle reflex that caught me by surprise and underscored just how immediate the preparation had been.
Our fourth dish arrived —a small bowl of dipping sauce and a hotpot
A small bowl of dipping sauce waited — dark, savory, and rich with umami. On the side, a divided dish offered finely chopped green onions and a vivid ball of spicy mentaiko, ready to be stirred for enhanced expectations
The taste of hotpot fugu meat is subtle, refined, and quietly elegant — a flavor that doesn’t shout, but lingers. When gently simmered in the hotpot, the fugu takes on a tender, almost silky texture, with a clean, slightly sweet profile that’s more about nuance than intensity.
Unlike fattier fish, fugu offers a lean bite, with a faint oceanic whisper that pairs beautifully with dipping sauces of ponzu. The warmth of the hotpot enhances its natural umami, and when combined with condiments like green onions or spicy daikon, each bite becomes a layered experience — soft, savory, and quietly invigorating. It’s a dish that rewards attentiveness, where the pleasure lies in the gentle unfolding of flavor.
On our way back to the accommodation, we came across a small police station (Koban),— a small neighborhood police station designed for community presence and quick response. Compact, well-lit, and strategically placed, it’s a familiar sight across urban Japan.
Kōban stations like this one are typically staffed by 3 to 10 officers, operating 24 hours a day. They serve as local hubs for community policing, handling everything from lost-and-found items and directions to minor incidents and neighborhood patrols. There are over 6,000 kōban across Japan, with about 1,000 in Tokyo alone, often located near train stations, busy intersections, or shopping districts
Few steps further, we made a quick stop at Family Mart — couldn’t resist. We stepped in and walked out, each clutching one of their infamous chicken cutlets, hot, crispy, and totally satisfying.
Cafe de Crie
Perfectly located at JR Okachimachi Station South Entrance, right below the tracks, it has absolutely become a reliable go-to for commuters and locals seeking a calm, casual café experience just steps from the station.
The café offers a spacious layout with around 70 seats, including both counter and table seating. It’s designed for comfort and convenience, with soft lighting, ample outlets, and a relaxed atmosphere that suits solo visitors, casual meetings, or a quiet break between errands.
Service is counter-style: you order at the register, and staff will bring you your order.
Storage Lockers
Most the train stations in the area offer plenty of convenient storage locker options to keep your hands free while you explore.
coin lockers in various sizes—from compact ones for backpacks to larger units that fit suitcases. Prices typically range from ¥300 to ¥900, and many lockers accept IC cards like Suica or PASMO and some machines accept cash, making payment quick and easy. Most lockers are available 24 hours, while others close around midnight, so it’s good to check the signage. If you need longer-term or oversized storage, look for luggage services beforehand.
Today we're meeting Akari, and I’ve got a few things to pass to her — some for her directly, and some for Sonny, who’s arriving in Tokyo this November from Dubai. Since I won’t be heading back to my accommodation until late tonight, using a locker for storage is the perfect solution to keep everything safe and out of the way.
Coffee Shop Galant
This stunning cafe is an absolute glittering relic of Tokyo’s Showa era, opened in 1977, and still radiating the extravagant charm of Japan’s bubble economy.
Located just two minutes from JR Ueno Station, this second-floor kissaten is accessed via a narrow staircase behind a convenience store—an unassuming entrance that leads to a dazzling surprise.
Inside, I was greeted by mirrored walls, plush faux-leather sofas, chandeliers dripping from the ceiling, and a layout that feels part disco lounge, part retro café. With around 100 seats, including counter and sofa options, the space is lively yet cozy, and notably smoking is allowed throughout.
The staff wear charming retro uniforms—women in yellow and red, men in red and black with checkered vests—adding to the nostalgic ambiance.
My second visit was a quiet solo stop, just to rest my legs and soak in the retro charm.
I settled into a cozy window seat, sipping a cool, citrusy glass of orange yogurt as the street outside moved in slow rhythm.
The third time, I came with him after a satisfying tonkatsu dinner, drawn in by the warm lights and lingering conversation.
Our third visit was after a hearty tonkatsu dinner — full and content, we wandered in, drawn by the warm glow and the promise of lingering conversation. He ordered a black coffee, I went for the orange yogurt, and together they became the quiet equation for quality time: simple, comforting, and just right.
Our fourth visit was a light lunch break, by chance or quiet design, we were seated at the very same table from my first visit. He took the seat Akari once occupied, and in that small, tender moment, memory stirred. I couldn’t help but be reminded of the warmth and laughter I shared with her and Yumiko — a flicker of the past woven into the present, soft and comforting.
The timeless atmosphere that keeps pulling us back.
Our fourth visit was a gentle pause in the day — a light lunch break, just enough time to enjoy their classic egg sando and soak in the timeless atmosphere that always seems to welcome us back.
Ameyoko Shopping Street
Ameyoko Shopping Street—just a few minutes’ walk from where I’m staying—is one of Tokyo’s most vibrant and iconic market districts. Stretching roughly 500 meters between JR Ueno and JR Okachimachi Stations, it’s a bustling corridor packed with around 400 shops selling everything from fresh seafood and seasonal fruits to cosmetics, sneakers, and street snacks.
Hard Rock Cafe Tokyo
Rock Shop where you can buy official merchandise, including T-shirts like the one your mum’s looking for. It’s located inside Atre Ueno mall, right at Ueno Station — super convenient and easy to find.
Stamin Taro NEXT
Stamina Taro NEXT Ueno Ameyoko, is a lively buffet-style restaurant located just steps from Ameyoko Market. It’s part of the Stamina Taro chain, known for offering a-you-can-eat yakiniku, sushi, ramen, udon, desserts, and even DIY cotton candy—making it a hit with families, tourists, and hungry groups.
Ordering is simple: you choose your course and pay at the entrance, then help yourself to the buffet stations.
The layout is spacious, with 108 seats, all non-smoking, and includes a dedicated smoking room. Service is casual but attentive, with staff keeping the buffet well-stocked and guiding guests through the options.
Kaldi Coffee Farm
Kaldi Coffee Farm is a specialty store in Japan known for its eclectic mix of imported foods, gourmet coffee, and quirky cooking essentials. It’s a treasure trove for adventurous home cooks and snack lovers alike, with shelves packed full of international sauces, spices, teas, wines, and Japanese fusion items you won’t find in regular supermarkets.
I am here only for this: Pre-seasoned oven bags or marinade pouches designed for chicken pieces.
Coffee New Bamboo
A super is a nostalgic, modest kissaten-style café located just steps from Yushima Station in Tokyo. It’s considered a long-standing local spot—likely operating for several decades, given its Showa-era ambiance and loyal clientele. The café is known for its incredibly affordable light meals, such as pizza toast, simple sandwiches, and coffee sets, with prices often lower than local chain cafés.
Ordering is done directly with the staff—there’s no ticket machine—making it feel personal and refreshingly old-school.
The layout is compact and cozy, with counter seating and small tables, and notably, smoking is allowed throughout, which adds to its retro charm but may not suit all visitors. Service is casual and friendly, often with regulars chatting quietly or enjoying a solitary break. It’s the kind of place where time slows down—a warm, lived-in corner of Tokyo perfect for a quiet coffee, a quick bite, or simply watching the city pass by.
My first visit was a solo stop, just a brief coffee break before heading back to the accommodation to unload my shopping haul, with plans to head out again later for dinner with him.
Osaka Ohsho Okachimachi Ekimae branch
What a surprise — there’s an Osaka Ohsho right here in Okachimachi! Even though we’d already had dinner, we couldn’t resist ducking in just for their signature gyoza. The storefront is instantly eye-catching, with oversized three-dimensional gyoza models climbing the facade — a playful nod to what they do best. Brightly lit menu boards flank the entrance, offering a peek at set meals and combos, while the warm glow and visible kitchen bustle hint at the energy inside.
It’s the kind of place that’s perfect for solo diners, quick bites, or late-night cravings — no frills, just dependable satisfaction.
Hanakagura Pandayaki
Hanakagura Pandayaki, nestled just beneath JR Okachimachi Station’s north exit, opened in 2021 and quickly became a local favorite for its irresistibly cute panda-shaped baby castella cakes. This tiny stall specializes in soft, fluffy treats made without water—just wheat flour, eggs, and milk—giving each bite a rich, moist texture.
Tonkatsu Yamabe
This fried cutlet shop is a beloved tonkatsu specialist nestled just off the bustling Ameyoko shopping street, a short walk from Ueno and Okachimachi stations. Opened on November 22, 2013, this two-story eatery has earned a cult following for its unbeatable value and consistently excellent fried pork cutlets.
Okachimachi Komachi Shokudo
What a 24-hour cafeteria-style restaurant located just a few minutes’ walk from Naka-Okachimachi and Ueno stations.
It took us 12 minutes' walk from our accommodation to reach this shokudo, now I am standing at the traffic light, and the destination is just right opposite.
This sign reflects a thoughtful part of Japanese dining culture—one that values atmosphere, respect, and the shared experience of a meal. By discouraging phone use, especially calls, the restaurant gently upholds a social courtesy: letting diners enjoy their food without digital distractions or loud interruptions.
In many traditional or retro cafés, this isn’t just about silence—it’s about preserving calm and presence. Meals are meant to be savored, conversations kept intimate, and the space shared respectfully. It’s a quiet form of hospitality that protects a sense of communal serenity.
On-Yasai
No trip to Japan is complete without eating local shabu-shabu! On-Yasai is a popular shabu-shabu restaurant located in Ueno, it a well-loved spot for both locals and visitors seeking a hearty, customizable hot pot experience.
Plain water is often chosen as the soup base in Japanese shabu-shabu to highlight the natural flavors of the ingredients, especially high-quality meats and vegetables. It’s a minimalist approach rooted in respect for purity and balance.
Shabu-shabu is all about swishing thin slices of meat and fresh vegetables briefly in hot liquid. Using plain water—or more traditionally, kombu-infused water—ensures that the delicate flavors of meats, seafood, and greens are not masked by strong seasonings. The water acts as a neutral canvas.
As we cook ingredients one by one, the water slowly absorbs their essence—umami from meat, sweetness from vegetables, and richness from mushrooms. By the end of the meal, the once-plain water becomes a gentle, flavorful broth that can be sipped or used to finish with noodles or rice.
Aoyama Tailor
This is a well-regarded brand of Japan’s leading suit retailer, offering affordable, ready-to-wear and semi-custom business attire in a clean, efficient layout.
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| This photo is from internet. |
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We were walking by and decided to pop in for a look and felt that the store is bright and neatly organized, with racks of suits arranged by style and price point, making browsing easy even for first-time visitors. |
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In the end we spent near SGD300 as he set his eyes on a coat & some wrinkle-resistant business shirts.  |
Cafe CLAIR
Located near to Ueno Station is a nostalgic kissaten-style café known for its retro atmosphere, classic Japanese Western dishes, and quiet charm. It opened in the early Showa era and continues to serve simple, heartfelt meals like Neapolitan spaghetti, Spicy curry chicken rice and etc.
This traditional Japanese coffee shop—or kissaten—that evokes the quiet elegance of postwar Tokyo, its ambiance and menu suggest roots in the mid-to-late Showa period, possibly the 1970s or 1980s.
Hokkaido Ramen Misokuma Okachimachi Ekimae
Been years since my last visit to Hokkaido and we chanced upon this and dash in for a quick lunch to officiate our trip here in this loving Tokyo.
Opened in 2020, it has since become a cozy go-to spot for miso ramen lovers near JR Okachimachi Station in Ueno area. Specializing in Sapporo-style miso ramen, its signature bowl features thick, chewy noodles swimming in a rich, savory miso broth—often topped with corn, butter, and stir-fried vegetables for that classic Hokkaido warmth.
No frills—just hearty ramen, quick turnover, and a local vibe that fits perfectly into the rhythm of Okachimachi.
Caffe Veloce
The brand founded in 1986, making it nearly 40 years old, has branches scatter all over Japan and it is known for its fast service, affordable prices, and relaxed atmosphere. Service is quick and polite, with self-service ordering and payment at the counter. Despite its modest size, the café is a popular stop for locals and travelers alike, especially those seeking a quiet break near Ueno’s busy shopping streets
This was the final photo I captured in Ueno, taken on the last evening of my journey through Tokyo. The atmosphere lingered with a quiet kind of magic—neon lights flickering against the dusk, casting reflections on the streets below, while the city’s pulse softened into something almost nostalgic. That blend of energy and calm, color and shadow, left a lasting impression. It’s a moment I will carry with me long after the trip ends.
Keisei Ueno Station
Keisei Ueno Station is a quiet gateway tucked beneath Ueno Park, where your journey to Narita begins. After descending into its clean, well-marked underground concourse, you’ll pass ticket machines and the Skyliner counter before reaching the platform.
The feeling of going home after an extraordinary time in Tokyo is a quiet ache wrapped in gratitude. Our hearts are full — overfull — with memories: the clatter of chopsticks in hidden alleyway izakayas, the hush of ancient shrines tucked between skyscrapers, we have laughed too much, walked too far, eaten too well, and felt more alive than we thought possible. And now, we are leaving.
The last meal in Tokyo...
Saboten Narita Airport Terminal 1 Shop
Saboten Narita Airport Terminal 1 Shop is a standout destination for travelers craving high-quality tonkatsu before departure. Located on the 4th floor of the Central Building, before security, it offers easy access to both domestic and international passengers.
The Saddest Gate OF MY LIFE
The departure gate of Narita International Airport becomes the saddest gate of my life — not because of what it is, but because of what it marks. It’s the threshold between magic and routine, between the version of I wandered freely and the one returning to structure. The gate is sterile, efficient, and polite, like much of Japan — but it doesn’t care that I was grieving. Standing there, passport in hand, surrounded by duty-free bags and the scent of last-minute tonkatsu, watching the screen flicker with boarding announcements. But for me, this gate is a quiet heartbreak. It’s the final page of a chapter I didn’t want to end.
And yet, as I walked through it, there’s a whisper of promise: "I WILL BE BACK".
The last purchase: 2 cuppa Starbucks
My Loots
After returning from Tokyo, my luggage felt like a curated gallery of joy. Tucked between layers of clothes were treasures from every corner of the city—each one a quiet echo of a moment I didn’t want to forget.
Between the zippers and seams, I found fragments of laughter, glimpses of neon, and the hush of early morning trains. My Tokyo loot wasn’t just souvenirs; it was a tactile diary of delight, nostalgia, and discovery.
We’ve reached the end of this blog on Ueno—a neighborhood that shaped my days of exploration, serving as both our base and our gateway to Tokyo’s vibrant rhythms.
And just like that, we’ve arrived at the final stop on this blog journey—thank you so much for walking alongside me through every story, snapshot, and sensory moment. If you’d like to continue exploring, I’ve gathered links to my other posts from this trip below. Each one offers a different glimpse into the places, flavors, and feelings that made this adventure unforgettable:
In the meantime, I’d love to share a few reflections from our earlier journeys through Japan. Below you’ll find links to blog posts from past trips—each one capturing a different slice of the country’s charm, from quiet shrines to bustling street corners.
It would mean so much if you had a moment to dive into a few more of the unforgettable adventures we've shared. Each one holds its own story, waiting to be rediscovered.
You're warmly invited to explore my other travel blogs, featuring adventures across France, Japan, China, Thailand, Malaysia, and even a few unforgettable cruises.
Our upcoming travel adventures will take us to the vibrant landscapes of China and the captivating charm of Taiwan. We’ll be sharing stories, sights, and discoveries from both destinations very soon—so stay tuned and journey with us!
To stay connected and catch the latest updates, feel free to follow me on social media: Facebook page: followblueginger, Instagram page : followblueginger , TikTok page: bluegingerkaren and Tumblr page :followblueginger.
Thanks for being part of the journey!
"I travel because seeing photos in books and brochures was not good enough for me, To be there, that was everything"
