Saturday, 8 November 2025

Setagaya@ Tokyo's Thrills

 “Tokyo’s heartbeat slows here.”


Setagaya Ward, Tokyo
Setagaya Ward, located in southwestern Tokyo, is one of the city's most desirable residential areas, known for its leafy streets, cultural heritage, and relaxed urban charm. As Tokyo’s most populous ward, it offers a unique blend of quiet neighborhoods, family-friendly parks, and vibrant local districts like Shimokitazawa and Sangenjaya. Setagaya is home to historical temples such as Gōtokuji—famous for its hundreds of beckoning cat statues. With excellent public transport connections via the Tokyu, Odakyu, and Keio lines, including the nostalgic Tokyu Setagaya Line tram, Setagaya offers a slower, more intimate side of Tokyo that’s rich in history, greenery, and local flavor.
Today, we are here to explore Gotokuji Temple & the iconic Gorilla above the Familymart store in Sangenjaya.


Starting from Okachimachi Station, we embarked on a nearly one-hour train journey with a few transfers along the way before arriving at Gotokuji Station. From there, it was a pleasant 12-minute walk to reach Gotokuji Temple. Rather than relying on Google Maps, we simply followed the flow of fellow visitors—an easy and intuitive path. As we strolled through the quiet neighborhood, we crossed the tracks of the Tokyu Setagaya Line and happened to catch sight of its charming carriages passing by. After exploring the temple, we planned to hop on this nostalgic tram for our next destination.



Halloween is in the air.

Gotokuji Temple
Gotokuji Temple (豪徳寺), nestled in Tokyo’s Setagaya Ward, is a serene Buddhist temple famed as the legendary birthplace of the Maneki-neko—the iconic “beckoning cat” figurine believed to bring good fortune 🐱. Founded in 1480, Gotokuji originally served as a family temple for the powerful Li clan, including Li Naosuke, a prominent figure in Japan’s Edo period politics.



What's the queue for ?

The temple grounds are peaceful and beautifully maintained, featuring traditional wooden halls, a three-story pagoda adorned with hidden cat sculptures, and a dedication hall filled with thousands of white Maneki-neko statues of all sizes. Visitors often purchase a cat figurine to make a wish, then return it the following year as a gesture of gratitude. This sea of lucky cats has made Gotokuji a beloved destination for both locals and tourists seeking charm, calm, and a touch of whimsy.

Architecturally, the temple includes historic structures like the Sanmon Gate, rebuilt after the Great Kanto Earthquake, and the main Buddhist Hall, which houses statues of Shakyamuni Buddha, Amida Nyorai, and Yakushi Nyorai. The temple is part of the Soto Zen school, and its tranquil atmosphere is best enjoyed in the early morning when crowds are light.

Curious about the queue, we took a closer look—turns out, everyone was waiting to pose with the cat statue. We bypassed the crowd, and I managed to capture a photo of it.
Gotokuji Temple’s legend is one of Tokyo’s most charming tales, and it’s the origin story of the beloved Maneki-neko, or “beckoning cat” 🐱.

In the early 17th century, Ii Naotaka, a feudal lord of the Hikone Domain, was caught in a sudden thunderstorm while passing by a modest temple. As he sought shelter, he noticed a cat sitting at the temple gate, raising its paw as if beckoning him. Curious, he followed the cat inside. Moments later, lightning struck the spot where he had been standing. Grateful for the cat’s mysterious intervention, Naotaka became a patron of the temple, funding its expansion and elevating its status2.
After his death, the temple was renamed Gotokuji, derived from his posthumous Buddhist name. The cat was enshrined as a deity of good fortune, and over time, worshippers began offering Maneki-neko figurines in gratitude for their own blessings. Today, thousands of these white cats with raised paws fill the temple grounds, each representing a wish granted or a prayer for luck




Now that we have wrapped up our exploration of the temple grounds, I would love to share a few more photos I captured during our visit. 







The architecture, rituals, and atmosphere were truly captivating—but one thing stood out to me. As I looked around, I noticed that nearly all the visitors were tourists. There was hardly a trace of local presence, which left me feeling a little conflicted. While it's wonderful to see people from around the world appreciating this sacred space, the absence of locals made the experience feel slightly detached from its living cultural roots.

The Pine Trees Forest Walk
The Pine Trees Forest Walk at Gotokuji Temple is a tranquil, tree-lined approach that sets the tone for the peaceful experience awaiting visitors inside this historic site. As you enter the temple grounds, you're greeted by a gentle path flanked by towering pine trees, their needles whispering in the breeze and casting dappled shadows on the stone walkway. This natural corridor creates a serene buffer from the outside world, inviting you to slow down and reflect.

After we ended the exploration here, we took the tram back to Sangenjaya station to find out more about this under rated neighbourhood.

Miyanisaka Station
Miyanosaka Station in Tokyo opened on July 15, 1945, which was just weeks before the end of World War II (August 15, 1945) and serves the Tokyu Setagaya Line.


It is impressive that even amid the final stages of conflict, Tokyo’s local infrastructure was still expanding or being restored.


Just 5 minutes' walk from Gotokuji Temple, Miyanosaka Station is built at ground level, featuring two side platforms that serve two tracks—what’s known as an at-grade design, where the station sits flush with the surrounding streets. While modest in size, it serves as an important link between local residential neighborhoods and larger transit hubs like Sangenjaya. 

Today, it remains a quiet, practical stop woven into the fabric of its community-focused surroundings, with nearby amenities such as the Miyanosaka Community Service Center adding to its everyday charm.

What a stroke of luck—we happened to board the special car-themed tram, and it turned out to be a delightful surprise. The exterior was beautifully decorated with cheerful "lucky cat" illustrations, giving the entire tram a playful and welcoming vibe. 

Inside, the theme continued with paw prints scattered across the floor, adding a whimsical touch that made the ride feel almost magical.




But what truly made the experience unforgettable was the tram master himself. An elderly gentleman, likely in his late 80s, stood at the helm with a warm smile that never seemed to fade. He greeted every passenger who boarded with genuine kindness, and at each stop, he spoke over the intercom—not just announcing the station but doing so with a gentle tone that felt like a personal welcome and the fact that he smiled while speaking made the entire journey feel even more heartwarming. It was one of those quiet, beautiful moments where you realize how much care and spirit can be infused into everyday routines.

The Tokyu Setagaya Line - Sangenjaya Station
The Tokyu Setagaya Line is a charming light rail tram that runs entirely within Tokyo’s Setagaya Ward, offering a nostalgic and hyper-local travel experience. Stretching just 5 kilometers between Sangenjaya and Shimo-Takaido stations, the line features 10 stops and winds through quiet residential neighborhoods, historic temples, cozy cafés, and leafy streets.  With its retro charm and easy access to cultural gems, the Setagaya Line offers a refreshing glimpse into Tokyo’s quieter side.





Sangenjaya Station (三軒茶屋駅) serves as the starting point of the Tokyu Setagaya Line, a charming light rail line that runs through the heart of Setagaya Ward. The station is also a stop on the Tokyu Den-en-toshi Line, making it a convenient hub for travelers heading toward Shibuya or the other parts of Tokyo.

Sangenjaya (三軒茶屋), affectionately known as “Sancha,” is a vibrant and eclectic neighborhood tucked into Tokyo’s Setagaya Ward, just southwest of Shibuya. Its name, meaning “Three Teahouses,” harks back to the Edo period, when the area served as a rest stop for pilgrims journeying along the historic Oyama Kaido road. Even today, that spirit of hospitality lingers in the air—woven into the fabric of its narrow streets, cozy cafés, and welcoming storefronts.
Sancha is a place where contrasts coexist beautifully. Traditional shotengai shopping arcades hum with daily life, while tucked-away alleyways reveal trendy bars, indie boutiques, and retro bakeries housed in lovingly restored buildings. The neighborhood’s layered charm lies in its ability to feel both lived-in and quietly stylish—never too polished, yet full of personality.
Locals and visitors alike are drawn to its relaxed pace and creative energy. Whether you're sipping coffee in a sunlit corner café, browsing vintage records, or catching the scent of fresh bread from a family-run bakery, Sangenjaya invites you to slow down and savor the moment. It’s a neighborhood that doesn’t shout—it smiles, nods, and welcomes you in with quiet confidence.





Kissaten Seven
Also known as Cafe Seven in English, it is a beloved retro-style coffee shop located just a short walk from Sangenjaya Station in Tokyo. It’s a classic example of a kissaten — a traditional Japanese café that dates back to the Showa era.



 With its cozy, nostalgic interior, velvet seating, and handwritten menus, Cafe Seven offers a quiet refuge from the city’s buzz. The menu features timeless kissaten staples like Napolitan pasta, omurice, and curry rice, all served with a side of warm hospitality. 


Regulars praise its relaxed vibe, affordable prices, and the kind of atmosphere that makes you want to linger over a cup of coffee and a paperback novel.
 


A kissaten (喫茶店) is a traditional Japanese coffeehouse that first appeared in the early 20th century, offering a quieter, more contemplative alternative to the bustling Western-style cafés. 




These spaces were designed as peaceful retreats where writers, students, and salarymen could enjoy a cup of coffee, read, or simply unwind in solitude. Characterized by their retro interiors—velvet chairs, wood-paneled walls, antique lighting, and the soft hum of jazz or classical music—kissaten evokes a deep sense of nostalgia. 
Today, kissaten are experiencing a quiet revival among younger generations drawn to their authenticity and vintage charm. Cafe Seven in Sangenjaya is a perfect embodiment of this resurgence, offering not just coffee, but a living slice of Tokyo’s post-war soul.

A cup of good house blend black coffee in a retro setting feels like stepping back into a slower, gentler time. The coffee itself is bold yet balanced aromatic with notes of roasted nuts and a hint of chocolate, smooth on the palate with a lingering warmth that comforts rather than overwhelms. Served in a sturdy porcelain cup, its rising steam curls upward, mingling with the nostalgic atmosphere: checkered floors, vinyl booths, and the faint hum of an old jukebox in the corner. Each sip carries not just flavor but memory, as if the rich brew has absorbed the character of the place—inviting you to pause, savor, and let the retro charm deepen the simple pleasure of black coffee.

A well-made omurice is the very definition of comfort food, blending simple ingredients into something deeply satisfying. The omelette itself is soft and slightly creamy inside, with a delicate golden exterior that almost melts on the tongue. Beneath it lies fried rice, often cooked with chicken, onions, and vegetables, seasoned with ketchup or demi-glace to give a sweet-tangy depth balanced by savory notes. Each spoonful brings a harmony of textures—the fluffy egg wrapping around warm, flavorful rice, lifted by the brightness of the sauce drizzled on top. The overall taste is nostalgic and heartwarming: rich yet gentle, playful yet grounding, a dish that feels both homely and indulgent at once.

A glass of good, iced latte topped with whipped cream is a layered indulgence of cool refreshment and velvety richness. The first sip brings the smooth balance of espresso and chilled milk—bold yet mellow, with a gentle sweetness that lingers. The ice keeps it crisp and invigorating, while the whipped cream crown adds a luxurious contrast: airy, creamy, and slightly sweet, melting slowly into the coffee below. As the cream blends with the latte, each sip evolves—starting with a frothy lightness, then deepening into a silky, coffee-kissed finish. It’s both energizing and comforting, a drink that feels like a treat and a pick‑me‑up at the same time.


Chazawa-dori
Chazawa-dori isn’t merely a street—it’s a living thread in the fabric of daily Tokyo life. Lined with an eclectic blend of independent stores, charming bakeries, offbeat fashion boutiques, and inviting cafés, it offers a stroll through creativity and comfort. Many of these spots are nestled within lovingly restored traditional buildings, adding layers of character to every corner.





Midway through our walk, I glanced back and spotted him in line at Truffle Bakery, eagerly waiting for a snack. He declared it was home to his favorite bread—no wonder he looked so pleased. With his treat in hand, we continued strolling until we suddenly found ourselves standing at the base of a jaw-dropping structure.




It's incredibly narrow structure and tiny interior apartment layout. The building is extremely slim, with a width of just a few meters. From certain angles, it looks almost two-dimensional. 
And finally, we reached the moment we’d been waiting for—the Sangenjaya Gorilla Building, the quirky crown jewel of our walk. Nestled seamlessly into the neighborhood’s streetscape, this surreal structure is impossible to overlook. A colossal gorilla clings to the façade of a three-story pink commercial building, frozen mid-climb with limbs outstretched and a surprisingly expressive face. In one massive hand, he gently cradles a young girl in a green dress, creating a scene so theatrical it feels plucked straight from a movie set.

Locals affectionately refer to it as the “Gorilla Building,” and it’s earned its place as a beloved oddity in the area. Built in 1979, the building has seen a rotating cast of tenants over the years—from a gym to a FamilyMart—yet the gorilla remains its most iconic resident. His expression isn’t fierce or cartoonish, but rather earnest, almost tender, as if he’s genuinely concerned for the girl he’s holding.

Below photos are from internet: This street isn’t just a local thoroughfare—it’s a cultural corridor that links Sangenjaya to Shimokitazawa, brimming with character and creativity. From retro-style bakeries tucked into restored homes to indie fashion boutiques and cozy cafés, Chazawa-dori reflects the spirit of Tokyo’s everyday charm. It’s a place where tradition meets trend, and where each storefront seems to tell its own story. Whether you're strolling for leisure or chasing hidden gems, this street offers a quiet kind of magic that’s easy to miss but hard to forget.












And just like that, we’ve arrived at the final stop on this blog journey—thank you so much for walking alongside me through every story, snapshot, and sensory moment. If you’d like to continue exploring, I’ve gathered links to my other posts from this trip below. Each one offers a different glimpse into the places, flavors, and feelings that made this adventure unforgettable:


In the meantime, I’d love to share a few reflections from our earlier journeys through Japan. Below you’ll find links to blog posts from past trips—each one capturing a different slice of the country’s charm, from quiet shrines to bustling street corners.



It would mean so much if you had a moment to dive into a few more of the unforgettable adventures we've shared. Each one holds its own story, waiting to be rediscovered.


You're warmly invited to explore my other travel blogs, featuring adventures across France, Japan, China, Thailand, Malaysia, and even a few unforgettable cruises.
Our upcoming travel adventures will take us to the vibrant landscapes of China and the captivating charm of Taiwan. We’ll be sharing stories, sights, and discoveries from both destinations very soon—so stay tuned and journey with us!
To stay connected and catch the latest updates, feel free to follow me on social media: Facebook page: followblueginger, Instagram page : followblueginger , TikTok page: bluegingerkaren and Tumblr page :followblueginger.
Thanks for being part of the journey!

"I travel because seeing photos in books and brochures was not good enough for me, To be there, that was everything"
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