Zhengding Town (正定城) @ Shijiazhuang, Hebei, China

 “Pagodas Rise, Dynasties Fall, Memories Endure.”

Zhengding Ancient Town (正定古城) 

Rich in cultural heritage and steeped in history, Zhengding Ancient Town lies just 15 kilometers north of Shijiazhuang in Hebei Province. Known in ancient times as Changshan (常山), Zhengding has served as a political, military, and spiritual center for over 2,700 years, with more than 2,200 years as an established county and over 1,600 years as a fortified city. It played a vital role across multiple dynasties—from the Han to the Qing—and stood as one of the Three Great Northern Strongholds in Chinese history. With city walls, traditional street grids, and architecture reflecting classical Chinese design, the town unfolds like a walkable museum. Visitors can explore majestic temples, ancient gates, and ornately carved archways that trace the evolution of Chinese civilization from the 5th to the 19th century. Despite the damage endured during historical upheavals such as the Cultural Revolution, Zhengding continues to preserve its legacy with nine nationally protected sites and dozens more at provincial and county levels. Today, the town thrives with cultural festivals, lotus-viewing in summer, war drum performances, and traditional folk art—offering an immersive journey through the vibrant tapestry of northern China’s historical identity.

Caotang Homestay (草堂民俗)

Nestled within Zhengding Ancient Town, Caotang Homestay is a boutique-style guesthouse designed as a traditional courtyard residence. It blends folk-inspired décor with modern comforts, offering guests a chance to immerse themselves in the atmosphere of the old city.

The courtyard layout includes three bedrooms and a living room with a small kitchenette. 

The homestay is both comfortable and tranquil, surrounded by the quiet charm of Zhengding’s historic lanes—an ideal retreat for those seeking cultural immersion and restful simplicity.

Two of the rooms are cozy studio-style spaces with single beds, while the third is a spacious suite featuring two large beds and its own living area. 

Ancient City Walk

Walking through the ancient city on a freezing night is an experience both bracing and enchanting.  

The cold air bites at your skin, each breath turning into a fleeting mist, yet the streets pulse with quiet life.

Lanterns glow warmly above doorways, casting golden halos onto cobblestones, while the silhouettes of restaurants, cafés, and small shops line the street like guardians of tradition and modernity side by side. 

The cold sharpens the senses, making every sound, scent, and flicker of light feel more vivid. In that moment, the ancient city feels alive in a way only winter can reveal—its history wrapped in silence, its present glowing with warmth, and its streets whispering stories to those willing to wander

Jiugongge Hotpot (九宫格火锅)

In Zhengding Ancient Town, Jiugongge Hotpot is more than a meal—it is a ritual of warmth and togetherness.

 The hallmark of this style is the nine-grid pot, where broths simmer side by side, each square inviting its own flavors and ingredients. 

That evening, we ordered four different soup bases and one of them is the fiery mala that tingled with Sichuan peppercorns, a gentle mushroom broth rich with earthy fragrance, a herbal tonic that felt restorative, and a tomatoe soup for clean simplicity.

As the night outside bit with harsh cold, the bubbling hotpot became our refuge. Steam rose in curling wisps, fogging the windows and softening the lantern light, while laughter and conversation mingled with the clatter of chopsticks. 

The contrast was striking—icy air beyond the door, but inside, a cocoon of heat, spice, and camaraderie. Each bite carried its own character: the numbing spice of beef dipped in the center grid, the delicate sweetness of shrimp cooked in the milder corners, the comfort of vegetables soaking up herbal notes.

Walking towards the ancient city gate afterward, the warmth lingered—not just in our bodies, but in spirit. In Zhengding’s winter, Jiugongge Hotpot is more than food; it is a celebration of resilience, a communal fire that turns a cold night into memory

Approaching this spot at night feels like stepping into a living scroll of history. The ancient city gate glows with golden light, its silhouette etched against the dark sky like a guardian of centuries past. Red lanterns sway gently, casting warm reflections on the stone walls, while the hum of modern life — electric cars, passing taxis, murmuring voices — flows quietly around you.

There’s a sense of reverence in the air, as if the gate itself remembers every dynasty, every footstep, every prayer.

We walk slowly, drawn by the contrast: old and new, silence and motion, memory and presence. It’s not just a landmark — it’s a threshold between worlds.

South Gate – Changle Gate (长乐门)

My humble translation :  “Eternal Happiness,” reflecting wishes for peace and stability.

This is one of the most iconic landmarks in Zhengding, Hebei Province. Originally constructed during the Eastern Jin Dynasty and later expanded in the Tang and Ming dynasties, the gate served as a vital entrance to the ancient walled city. 

Today, it stands as a beautifully restored symbol of the town’s rich history and architectural heritage. The gate is part of the larger Zhengding city wall system and features a traditional tower structure with sweeping eaves, red lanterns, and stone battlements.

 Visitors can freely walk up to the top of the gate to enjoy panoramic views of the ancient town, especially enchanting at night when the structure is illuminated with warm lighting.

 The South Gate not only offers a glimpse into the grandeur of imperial-era city planning but also serves as a peaceful vantage point for appreciating Zhengding’s blend of history, culture, and modern charm.

Each evening at 8:30 p.m., the South Gate (Changle Gate, 长乐门) of Zhengding Old Town comes alive with a dazzling laser light show. Colorful beams, LED patterns, and vivid projections sweep across the ancient city walls, accompanied by music that transforms the historic gate into a festive stage. In the crisp winter air, the lights appear even sharper, cutting brilliantly into the night sky.

I felt fortunate to stand at the very center of the gate, with a direct view of the spectacle unfolding before me. The interplay of light and stone was breathtaking—modern radiance dancing upon centuries-old walls. For those hoping to capture the moment, a tripod proves invaluable in the low light, ensuring the brilliance of the beams is preserved in memory as vividly as in sight.

The view unfolds like a cinematic scroll of modern life meeting ancient grace. A wide avenue stretches ahead, aglow with festive lights and flanked by trees, neon signs, and bustling storefronts. 

In the distance, a majestic pagoda-style tower rises — its silhouette illuminated like a beacon of history amid the urban rhythm. Cars line the street, people stroll beneath the canopy of color, and even the presence of police and ceremonial vehicles adds to the sense of occasion.

 It’s a vibrant, layered scene: Zhengding by night, where tradition stands tall and the city pulses with warmth, movement, and memory.

Descending from the city gate at night feels like the town itself is closing its eyes—stone walls softening into silence, lanterns glowing like dreams, the world readying for rest.

At 7am in the morning, the cold in Zhengding is so sharp it feels like the air itself has teeth. Each breath rises in a pale plume, dissolving quickly into the stillness above the stone streets. Wrapped in thick scarves and gloves, we step out from the inn to buy breakfast, our footsteps crunching faintly against the frost that clings to the cobbles.

The town is already alive. A bicycle rattles past, its rider hunched against the wind, a basket strapped to the back filled with fresh vegetables.

Road sweepers move with quiet diligence, their brooms whispering against the stone. Each sweep gathers the dust of centuries and the fallen leaves of the night, restoring order to streets already stirring with life.

The ancient walls of Zhengding stand silent but watchful, their stones glowing faintly under the weak winter sun. They seem to hold the memory of countless mornings like this—centuries of cold dawns, of townsfolk stirring to life beneath their gaze. The gate towers, once guardians of armies, now preside over the hum of daily rituals: kettles clanging, carts creaking, laughter rising in short bursts.

Yanghe Tower (阳和楼)

Yanghe Tower is a historic gate-tower in Zhengding Ancient Town, once integral to the city’s fortifications. 

In its original form, it functioned both as a watchtower and a ceremonial gateway, embodying the town’s prosperity and sense of security.

 The structure seen today is a carefully reconstructed relic, restored to safeguard Zhengding’s heritage and now serving as a prominent cultural landmark and tourist attraction. 

Historical records trace the tower’s origins to Zhengding’s imperial past, most notably as part of the Ming dynasty city wall system, though its foundations may reach back even earlier.

Jianbing Jianbing (健饼煎饼)

Jianbing (crepe) is a traditional Chinese street food, often described as a savory crepe or pancake. 

It’s typically made with a thin batter cooked on a griddle, layered with egg, scallions, cilantro, crispy crackers (called baocui), and seasoned with sauces like hoisin or chili.

Jianbing is believed to date back nearly 2,000 years, with roots in northern China. A humble, everyday food rather than a relic—though its preparation method preserves traditional culinary techniques. Still a popular street breakfast across China, especially in Hebei and Beijing, often enjoyed with warm soy milk.

Altogether, we ordered 6 bacon crepes, 3 cups soya milk and 6 coffees from Luckin Coffee located right opposite. 

After breakfast, 4 of us are going for a morning stroll to the good sights of the region while Mr and Mrs Lee prefer to stay in. Mr Lee is afraid of the cold while Mrs Lee has aching legs. 

Wangquan Street (旺泉街)

Wangquan Street in Zhengding is among the town’s most evocative historic lanes, where the charm of an ancient city mingles effortlessly with food, culture, and nocturnal vibrancy. 

As part of Zhengding Ancient City’s living heritage, it invites visitors to wander past traditional façades, savor Hebei delicacies, and bask in the warm glow of lantern-lit evenings. More than a mere food street, Wangquan is a bridge between medieval memory and modern vitality. 

Its cobbled pathways still whisper of centuries of trade and community life, while today they unfold as a living museum of flavors, sights, and sounds. 

After contemplating the Han dynasty tomb treasures at the Hebei Museum, one can pause here, letting the sensory bustle of the street draw history back into the rhythm of everyday life.

Zhaoyun Temple (赵云庙)

Zhaoyun Temple in Zhengding traces its origins to the Daoguang era of the Qing Dynasty (1821–1850). Reconstructed on its historic site in 1996, the temple was formally reopened to visitors on April 13, 1997.

The temple honors Zhao Yun (courtesy name Zilong), the legendary general of Shu Han during the Three Kingdoms period.

Zhao Yun was born in Changshan Zhending , making the temple a deeply local memorial. “吾乃常山赵子龙”.

Known as the “常胜将军” (“General Who Always Won”), Zhao Yun was celebrated for his bravery, loyalty, and skill in battle, becoming a folk hero across centuries.

This pavilion in Zhao Yun Temple houses a commemorative stele inscribed with virtues and blessings, honoring the legacy of General Zhao Yun, the famed warrior of the Three Kingdoms era.

Its inscription recalls Zhengding’s proud identity as the birthplace of General Zhao Yun, the legendary warrior of the Three Kingdoms era. Once known as Shunde Prefecture, this land has long been celebrated for producing heroes, with Zhao Yun as its most luminous figure. Yet time had worn the temple’s façade, dimming its dignity. The stele marks a turning point—a restoration funded by the government and embraced by the community. It speaks of collective joy, perseverance through challenges, and the successful renewal of the temple’s appearance. More than a record of repairs, it reflects the enduring spirit of Zhao Yun himself: steadfast, honorable, and deeply rooted in the soul of Zhengding. Through this act of preservation, the temple once again becomes a living monument, inviting visitors to witness both history and progress in a single breath.

Beneath the twin dragons carved in relief, a newly erected stele stood firm—its inscription a testament not to ancient battles, but to modern care. It spoke of Zhengding’s pride, of a temple façade once weathered by time, now restored with communal effort and government support. The words honored Zhao Yun not only as a hero of the Three Kingdoms, but as a symbol of enduring virtue—his legacy polished anew for generations to come. Reading the inscription, I felt the pulse of a town that remembers. The renovation wasn’t just about bricks and tiles—it was about reclaiming dignity, about letting Zhao Yun’s spirit shine through red pillars and clean stone. The stele, dated October 31, 2017, marked a moment when history and present clasped hands. In that moment, the temple was no longer just a shrine—it was a living vow to preserve valor, loyalty, and the quiet strength of heritage.

The walkway leading through the temple grounds is lined with displays of ancient weapon replicas — spears, halberds, swords, and shields — recalling the armaments of the Three Kingdoms era.

Wuhu Hall (五虎殿) – commemorates the “Five Tiger Generals” of Shu Han. The “Five Tiger Generals of Shu Han” (蜀汉五虎上将) are Guan Yu, Zhang Fei, Zhao Yun, Ma Chao, and Huang Zhong.

Together, they symbolize Shu Han’s martial spirit—courage, loyalty, and legendary valor.

Ma Chao (马超) – Known as “Splendid Ma,” a brilliant cavalry commander who later joined Shu.

Huang Zhong (黄忠) – Elderly yet formidable, renowned for defeating Xiahou Yuan at Mount Dingjun.

Zhao Yun (赵云) – Calm and courageous, rescued Liu Bei’s infant son during the Battle of Changban.

Guan Yu (关羽) – Famous for loyalty and righteousness, revered as the “God of War.”

Zhang Fei (张飞) – Fierce and bold, remembered for his roar at Changban Bridge that halted Cao Cao’s army.

Zhao Yun’s relationship with Liu Bei was marked by unwavering loyalty and deep trust. From the time he joined Liu Bei’s forces, Zhao Yun distinguished himself as a calm and courageous general who could be relied upon in the most perilous situations. Liu Bei valued him not only for his battlefield skill but also for his integrity and devotion, often entrusting him with critical missions. The most famous example came during the Battle of Changban, when Zhao Yun risked his life to rescue Liu Bei’s infant son, Liu Shan, and protect Lady Gan, an act that symbolized his dedication to both leader and family. Unlike many generals of the era who shifted allegiances, Zhao Yun remained faithful to Liu Bei throughout his life, serving him and later his heir with steadfast honor.

Shunping Marquis Hall (顺平侯殿) – celebrates Zhao Yun’s noble title.

Within Zhaoyun Temple, the Shunping Marquis Hallstands as a solemn tribute to Zhao Yun’s final honor. After Liu Bei’s death in 223 CE, Zhao Yun continued to serve faithfully under Liu Shan, the new ruler of Shu Han. When Zhao Yun passed away due to old age in 229 CE, Liu Shan conferred upon him the noble title of Marquis of Shunping,, linking his memory to the land of his birth in Hebei. The hall enshrines this recognition, reminding visitors that Zhao Yun was not only a fearless general on the battlefield but also a figure of enduring loyalty whose service was acknowledged by the throne. In its architecture and atmosphere, the hall preserves the dignity of that title, allowing Zhao Yun’s legacy to resonate as both a local hero and a noble of Shu Han.

Longxing Temple (隆兴寺)

Longxing Temple is a vast and historic Buddhist complex, first founded in the Sui dynasty in 586 CE and later expanded through the Song, Jin, Ming, and Qing dynasties. Known as one of the most important temples in northern China, it houses treasures that span more than a millennium of religious and artistic history. The most famous is the towering bronze Guanyin statue in the Song‑era Mani Hall, a masterpiece of Buddhist sculpture that still radiates serenity. Scattered across the grounds are relics such as Northern Dynasties stone carvings, a Jin dynasty scripture pillar carved with sutras, and a Ming dynasty well pavilion, each layer of architecture adding depth to the temple’s story. Together, these halls, courtyards, and monuments form a living chronicle of Chinese Buddhism, making Longxing Temple not only a place of worship but also a museum of dynastic art and cultural memory

Budai—the Laughing Buddha—sits with radiant joy, his round belly exposed and prayer beads resting in one hand.The hall’s red beams and intricate carvings frame the statue in warmth and reverence, creating an atmosphere where laughter, generosity, and spiritual merit quietly converge. Budai’s cheerful presence, often associated with abundance and contentment, seems to invite visitors to pause, smile, and reflect.

The Four Great Heavenly Kings (四大天王) are Buddhist guardian deities who protect the Dharma and watch over the four directions. In temple halls they are depicted as fierce, armored figures: Dhṛtarāṣṭra guards the east with music and harmony, Virūḍhaka the south with growth and expansion, Virūpākṣa the west with his all‑seeing vision, and Vaiśravaṇa the north with authority and wealth. Together they stand at the entrance of many temples, embodying vigilance and strength, ensuring that worshippers enter under the watchful protection of these cosmic guardians.

This doorway in Longxing Temple will lead us into a public courtyard where educational display boards are set up for visitors.

This solemn courtyard behind the incense pot marks the remains of the Great Awakening Master Hall, once a significant structure within the Longxing Temple complex. Though the original hall no longer stands, its ceremonial layout endures: a central incense burner, stone pillars, and a raised platform evoke the grandeur of past rituals. Informational signage nearby explains that this space once honored a revered Buddhist figure, the Great Awakening Master, whose teachings and legacy were central to the temple’s spiritual life. The surrounding architecture — red façades, green-tiled roofs, and shaded trees — frames the site with quiet dignity. Even in ruin, the hall’s footprint preserves a sense of reverence, inviting visitors to reflect on the impermanence of form and the enduring power of devotion.

This vibrant scene captures the wish-tag pavilion within the Longxing Temple complex, where hundreds of red ribbons flutter gently in the breeze. Each ribbon bears a prayer or wish, handwritten by visitors seeking blessings, protection, or good fortune. The structures, with their tiled roofs and traditional woodwork, form a tranquil enclave beneath the trees, inviting quiet reflection. The red tags—symbols of hope and devotion—stand out vividly against the natural greens and browns, transforming the space into a living tapestry of collective aspiration. It’s a place where personal longing meets cultural ritual, and where the spirit of the temple extends beyond its halls into the hearts of those who pass through.

Moni Hall (摩尼殿)

The Moni Hall within Longxing Temple is its most celebrated sanctuary, built in the Song dynasty in 1052 and still standing as a masterpiece of Buddhist architecture. At its heart rises the monumental bronze statue of Guanyin, over eleven meters tall, with a thousand arms and eyes symbolizing infinite compassion. The hall was designed to frame this statue in solemn grandeur, its vast interior allowing the bronze figure to dominate the space with serene authority. Visitors stepping inside are enveloped by a hushed atmosphere, where the dim light glints off the statue’s flowing robes and intricate details, creating a sense of timeless reverence. More than a religious icon, the Moni Hall embodies the artistry and devotion of the Song era, making it the spiritual and cultural centerpiece of Longxing Temple.

Row of Stone Steles

Within the Longxing Temple complex, a row of ancient stone steles rests atop traditional tortoise-shaped bases, each carved with intricate motifs and crowned with dragon designs. These steles commemorate imperial visits and significant historical events, including inscriptions left by the Qianlong and Jiaqing emperors of the Qing dynasty. Enclosed by a protective fence and shaded by trees, they stand as silent witnesses to centuries of reverence, imperial patronage, and cultural continuity, adding depth to the temple’s layered legacy.

Bixi (赑屃)

is a mythical creature in Chinese tradition, said to be one of the nine sons of the Dragon King, and is most often depicted as a hybrid of dragon and tortoise. With the dragon’s head and claws combined with the tortoise’s shell, Bixi embodies both power and endurance. This symbolism explains why he is almost always carved as the base of monumental stone steles: the tortoise represents longevity and stability, while the dragon conveys authority and divine strength. By resting inscriptions on Bixi’s back, dynasties and temples signaled that the words carved into stone would be carried securely across centuries, protected by a creature whose mythical strength could bear any weight. From the Han dynasty onward, Bixi became a standard pedestal for imperial decrees, commemorative tablets, and tomb markers, ensuring that memory and legacy were literally supported by a guardian of permanence.

Trace of Prince Guo (果郡王)

In the 12th year of the Yongzheng reign (1734), Yunli, the 17th son of Emperor Kangxi and holder of the title Prince Guo, composed and inscribed a stele at Longxing Temple.

This stele not only confirms Prince Guo’s visit but also offers a rare glimpse into Qing-era reflections on Zhengding’s landscape and Buddhist heritage. It’s a beautiful convergence of imperial presence, poetic observation, and spiritual reverence.

Trace of Emperor Jiaqing

Following in his father’s footsteps, the Jiaqing Emperor also visited Longxing Temple. His presence is similarly marked by stone inscriptions and commemorative plaques, reinforcing the temple’s status as a site of imperial favor and cultural importance.

Trace of Emperor Qianlong

Known for his extensive inspection tours across northern China, Qianlong visited Longxing Temple during one of his journeys. His admiration for the temple’s grandeur and spiritual significance led to the erection of imperial steles and inscriptions, some of which still survive within the complex. These records reflect his reverence for Buddhist culture and his role in preserving historic sites.

A stone stele rests securely within a small pavilion, its presence safeguarded by fences that mark its importance. Stepping closer, I realized this was no mere replica but an authentic relic from the Qing dynasty, standing quietly for some two to three centuries. The pavilion, together with the commemorative stele it shelters, preserves the memory of a revered Buddhist master while embodying the architectural and spiritual legacy of Longxing Temple. As part of a nationally protected heritage site, it underscores the temple’s cultural significance, while its stonework, design, and inscriptions continue to illuminate the religious practices and commemorative traditions of earlier dynasties.

Master Guanghui's Relic

The plaque recounts the story of the Stone Pillar of Buddhist Relics of Master Guanghui, a monument dating back to the Jin dynasty. Master Guanghui, an eminent monk of the Ci’en school and abbot of Longxing Temple, passed away in 1163. To honor him, this marble pillar was erected in 1180 to enshrine his relics. Once composed of a base, body, and top, the pillar now survives in partial form, rising 5.02 meters into the air. Even in its weathered state, it remains a profound heritage artifact, embodying the religious devotion and exquisite craftsmanship of Jin dynasty Buddhism.

Equally remarkable is the Cloud Platform, a majestic marble structure built in 1342 during the Yuan dynasty. Though its original archway was lost in the early Ming period, the surviving platform still towers 9.6 meters high and spans 26 meters east to west. Its surfaces are adorned with intricate carvings of floral and mythical motifs, and most strikingly, it bears Buddhist inscriptions in six languages—Sanskrit, Tibetan, Phags-pa, Uighur, Chinese, and Tangut. These multilingual texts reveal the cosmopolitan spirit of Yuan rule, while the platform itself stands as both a religious monument and a linguistic treasure. Set within a tranquil garden and protected by fences, the Cloud Platform endures as a rare fusion of spiritual devotion and imperial multiculturalism.

Wow… oh my god… what a real relic!

The archway is a graceful stone paifang, rising with balanced symmetry and intricate carvings that catch the light. Its pale stone surface is adorned with decorative motifs, while four guardian lions stand proudly at its base, lending both dignity and protection to the entrance. The central beam bears gilded Chinese characters, shimmering against the weathered stone, and the structure frames a pathway that leads into a serene garden lined with trees and lanterns. Even with scaffolding hinting at ongoing restoration, the archway retains its elegance — a blend of artistry and reverence that makes it both a ceremonial gateway and a timeless ornament of the temple grounds.

Yuan Dynasty mural tomb (元代壁画墓)

Within Zhengding Ancient Town lies a Yuan Dynasty mural tomb, tucked inside the Longxing Temple complex .The identity of the tomb’s occupant remains unconfirmed, and no public record names the individual interred there. Yet the site is treasured for its historical and artistic significance, particularly the murals that embody the early Yuan aesthetic. Such anonymity is not unusual—many Yuan burials, shaped by Mongol customs, favored secrecy and simplicity, leaving even richly adorned tombs unmarked, especially when the deceased were aristocrats or officials. Around the temple, other relics enrich the landscape: solemn stone sculptures from the Northern Dynasties, a scripture pillar from the Jin era, and a Ming Dynasty well pavilion. Though the mural tomb is not always accessible, I could not resist trying my luck, eager to glimpse its painted walls. Fortune, however, was not on my side—the tomb was closed during my visit.

Behind the main halls of Longxing Temple, there is a tranquil pond that forms part of the temple’s extended layout. Historically, such ponds were often integrated into Buddhist temple grounds for both practical and symbolic purposes — serving as water sources, reflecting the surrounding architecture, and embodying purity and calm in Buddhist cosmology. Today, the pond enhances the temple’s serene environment. Visitors often note how the water mirrors the tiled roofs and ancient trees, creating a contemplative space that contrasts with the grandeur of the halls and steles.

Laoyuan Noodles House (老院面馆)

Just across from the entrance to Longxing Temple stands Local Noodles House, a modest yet welcoming spot famed for its steaming bowls of local noodles. Its signature dish is héle noodles, a Zhengding specialty made from buckwheat flour, celebrated for their firm, chewy bite and often served with toppings like braised mushrooms, minced pork, or soybeans. Inside, the atmosphere was entirely local — not a single tourist in sight. With my Danish companion beside me, we drew curious glances as I placed our order, switching between English to him and Mandarin to the shopkeeper. The moment felt both amusing and memorable, a small cultural encounter woven into the rhythm of everyday life.

Here’s a breakdown of the menu items from the board: 

特色饸饹 – Specialty héle noodles (buckwheat-based, chewy texture)

牛肉烧麦 – Beef shaomai (steamed dumplings with

炒饼 – Stir-fried pancake strips beef filling)

手擀面 – Hand-rolled noodles

崩肝 – Stir-fried pork liver (a local specialty)

水饺 – Boiled dumplings

素凉菜 – Cold vegetarian dishes

In the end, we ordered 2 hele noodles and dumplings. 

Made from buckwheat flour, héle noodles carry a natural, slightly bitter undertone — a rustic flavor that sets them apart from wheat-based noodles. This nuttiness pairs beautifully with savory broths and toppings. The noodles are extruded through a wooden press, giving them a firm, springy bite. They hold their texture well in hot soup, offering a mouthfeel that’s both hearty and satisfying.

Pork dumpling was served hot, the filling is typically made from finely minced pork, often mixed with ginger, scallions, and a splash of soy sauce or sesame oil. When steamed or boiled, the juices are sealed inside, creating a rich, meaty broth that bursts with each bite. The dough is soft and slightly chewy when boiled, or delicate and slightly crisp at the edges when pan-fried. It acts as a neutral canvas, absorbing the flavors of the filling and any dipping sauce. A mix of black vinegar, soy sauce, and chili oil can elevate the experience.

Glorious Pagoda of Guanghui Temple (广惠寺华塔)

Guanghui Temple in Zhengding (RMB15 entry fee), Hebei, is a historic Buddhist site most renowned for its surviving Hua Pagoda. The pagoda, originally built in the Tang dynasty and reconstructed during the Jin dynasty’s Dading reign in the late 12th century, rises as an octagonal, four‑story tower blending attic‑style tiers with intricate carvings.

Emperor Qianlong visited Guanghui Temple on several occasions to pay homage, leaving behind three poems inspired by its celebrated pagoda.

“On the Eleventh Month’s Full Moon at Guanghui Temple’s Multi‑Treasure Pagoda” Written in the 15th year of his reign (1750)  Chinese text: 冬十一月既望广惠寺多宝塔高敞金台敞，香烟绕法轮。多宝塔名胜，层级出梵音。宝盖浮云护，珠缨瑞气临。愿言登彼岸，早证大乘心。

“Spring Sunshine at Guanghui Pagoda” Written in the 46th year of his reign (1781)  Chinese text: 辛丑春晴广惠塔作广惠塔名胜，层级出梵音。宝盖浮云护，珠缨瑞气临。愿言登彼岸，早证大乘心。高敞金台敞，香烟绕法轮。

“Spring Sunshine at Guanghui Temple Pagoda” Written in the 51st year of his reign (1786)  Chinese text: 丙午季春晴广惠寺塔作宝盖浮云护，又甚宝盖名。珠缨瑞气临，亦甚珠缨情。高敞金台敞，香烟绕法轮。愿言登彼岸，早证大乘心。多宝塔名胜，层级出梵音。

The Pagoda rises as an octagonal, four‑story tower, its form blending the solidity of brick with the elegance of attic‑style tiers. Each level is adorned with intricate carvings: inside, serene Buddha statues are enshrined, while the upper tiers display sculpted figures of warriors, elephants, lions, and Bodhisattvas, embodying both protection and spiritual aspiration.

 The pagoda’s crown is capped with a lotus‑shaped finial, symbolizing purity and transcendence, while decorative eaves curve outward like unfolding petals, giving the structure its distinctive grace.

The site remains open until late evening, and as darkness falls, the pagoda is bathed in golden illumination. Seen at night, its silhouette glows against the quiet streets of Zhengding, transforming the ancient stonework into a radiant beacon.

 During my walk, its light seemed to dissolve time, turning the stillness of the old town into a scene of timeless beauty, where history and devotion continue to shine together.

Lingji Temple (临济寺)

This temple is among the most historically significant Buddhist temples in China. Founded in 540 CE along the banks of the Luhu River, it is revered as the birthplace of the Linji school of Chan (Zen) Buddhism, established by Master Linji Yixuan in the mid‑Tang dynasty. Today, the temple serves both as an active place of worship and a cultural landmark, its influence extending deeply across East Asian Buddhism. Open to visitors until late evening, Linji Temple is especially captivating at night, when its halls and pagodas glow under soft illumination — transforming it into not only a spiritual sanctuary but also a striking destination for cultural discovery and photography.

Linji Pagoda (临济塔)

This remarkable pagoda enshrines the sacred relics of Master Linji Yixuan, the Tang‑dynasty monk who founded the influential Linji school of Chan (Zen) Buddhism. Historical records affirm that within its chamber lie the sarira (舍利) of the master, making the site a revered destination for generations of Zen practitioners. Rising in an octagonal form, the pagoda is built of brick and wood, its proportions reflecting the elegance of Tang‑style architecture. Each tier is adorned with Buddhist motifs — lions, lotus petals, and guardian figures — embodying both enlightenment and protection. More than a monument, it stands as a spiritual beacon, linking the devotion of the past with the contemplative journeys of pilgrims today.

The stone stele at Linji Temple stands as a solemn tribute to Master Linji Yixuan, the Tang-dynasty monk whose teachings gave rise to the Linji school of Chan Buddhism — a tradition that would later flourish across East Asia. Carved with reverent inscriptions, the monument honors his spiritual achievements and enduring legacy. 

Bixi (赑屃)

It rests upon a sculpted bixi, the mythical dragon-turtle often seen cradling imperial tablets, its form symbolizing strength, longevity, and the weight of wisdom. In the quiet temple courtyard, this stele feels less like stone and more like a voice from the past — a carved echo of Linji’s fearless pursuit of awakening, still inspiring pilgrims who pause before it in reflection.

This framed portrait of Master Linji Yixuan, nestled within the stone architecture of Linji Temple, offers a quiet moment of reverence amid centuries of spiritual tradition. Set in a red-bordered shrine with ceremonial ribbons and flowers, the image bridges past and present — honoring the Tang-dynasty monk

Here are few insights on the temple....

Pink Colour Cat

Have you ever come across a pink-colored cat? I just did — she’s here, looking no older than two, with a playful, gentle spirit. When I meowed at her, she responded sweetly, as if greeting me in return. I suspect she’s been romping around beneath heaps of joss sticks, her fur tinged by the fragrant dust of incense.

At 2 p.m., our driver arrived to take us back to Beijing. Though our time in Zhengding was drawing to a close, there were still corners of the old city we hadn’t managed to explore on foot. We asked him to drive us past those lingering sights, content to admire them from the window as the car rolled slowly through the streets. 

Lingxiao Pagoda (凌霄塔) at Tianning Temple (天宁寺)

As we drove past, a striking pagoda caught my eye, prompting me to quickly take a photo. Later I discovered it was the Lingxiao Pagoda of Tianning Temple, a Tang‑dynasty relic dating back to around 779 CE. Often nicknamed the “Wooden Pagoda” for its appearance, it is in fact built of stone, carefully crafted to mimic timber architecture. Rising to about 41 meters, the octagonal tower is richly carved and was restored during the Northern Song dynasty in 1045. My snapshot captured more than just a structure — it preserved a 1,200‑year‑old monument that has endured the rise and fall of dynasties, still standing today with quiet, timeless dignity.

Ancient North Gate (北城门)

The North Gate of Zhengding forms part of the city’s ancient fortifications, first constructed during the Eastern Jin dynasty in 352 CE and later strengthened under the Northern Zhou and Ming dynasties. As one of the surviving gateways of the Zhengding City Wall — a structure that has endured for more than 1,400 years — it once served as a crucial defensive entrance, guarding access from the northern plains. 

Over the centuries, the gate was rebuilt and reinforced, with much of its present form dating to the Ming era. 

While many of Zhengding’s gates have disappeared through urban development, the North Gate still stands, preserving its arched passageway, battlements, and stone foundations. Careful restorations have ensured its survival, allowing modern visitors to glimpse the city’s medieval planning. 

Seen today amid busy streets and traffic lights, the gate rises unexpectedly, a striking juxtaposition of ancient fortification and contemporary life.

Ancient War Drum of Changshan (常山战鼓)

This drum is a powerful percussion tradition from Zhengding, once known as Changshan County in Hebei. Originating in the Warring States period and flourishing in the Ming dynasty, they became a cultural emblem of Zhengding Ancient City.

Performed with massive drums, cymbals, and gongs, dozens of drummers strike in unison with martial-style movements, recalling ancient battlefield formations. The tradition honors Zhao Zilong (Zhao Yun), the famed Three Kingdoms general from this region, and is celebrated for its intensity and dramatic flair at festivals and parades.

Recognized as one of China’s Four Great War Drums and listed as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2008, the Changshan War Drums have evolved from battlefield signals into a vibrant folk performance. Today, their thunderous energy still echoes through Zhengding as a living tradition.

I have wandered through many of China’s water towns and villages, yet this was my first time visiting and staying within the walls of a fortified city. Life in Zhengding unfolds with a simplicity and purity that is deeply moving, its scattered relics lending the small town a quiet, enduring charm. The people here are honest and grounded, embodying the timeless spirit of this historic place.

As the road carried us back toward Beijing, a gentle nostalgia stirred within me. Zhengding had offered more than monuments and museums—it had opened a living dialogue with history, where simplicity and sincerity shaped the soul of the city. Leaving behind its cobbled lanes and weathered walls, I carried with me the warmth of its people and the resonance of its relics—treasures that will linger long after the journey itself has ended

And just like that, we’ve arrived at the final stop on this blog journey—thank you so much for walking alongside me through every story, snapshot, and sensory moment. If you’d like to continue exploring, I’ve gathered links to my other posts from this trip below. Each one offers a different glimpse into the places, flavors, and feelings that made this adventure unforgettable:

1) Echoes of the Old Beijing (北京) China 

2) Zhengding Town (正定城) @ Shijiazhuang, Hebei, China 

3) Forbidden City (故宫) & Jinshan Park (景山公园) @ Beijing

4) Temple Of Heaven (天坛·) @ Beijing China

5) Emperor Qianlong's Yuling (乾隆帝裕陵) @ Zunhua

6) The Great Wall - Juyong Pass (居庸关) @ Beijing

7) Reliving 2,500 Years at Liu Sheng’ (刘胜), Prince of Zhongshan (中山靖王) Tomb @ Hebei Museum 

In the meantime, I’d love to share a few reflections from our earlier journeys through China. Below you’ll find links to blog posts from past trips—each one capturing a different slice of the country’s charm, from quiet shrines to bustling street corners.

1) Pearl Of Orient

2) West Lake @ HangZhou China

3) Shanghai's City Walk @ Wukang Road (武康路), Anfu Road (安福路), Wulumuqi Road (乌鲁木齐路)

4) Fujian, Xiamen - finding my roots - 认祖归宗

It would mean so much if you had a moment to dive into a few more of the unforgettable adventures we've shared. Each one holds its own story, waiting to be rediscovered.

1) Arctic's Journey: The Aurora Borealis of Tromsø, The Nirvana Norway

2) Captivating Colmar France @ Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious Switzerland

3) Idyllic Iseltwald @ Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious Switzerland

4) Maginificent Matterhorn @ Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious Switzerland

5) Bedazzling Bruges @ Belgium

6) Ban Rak Thai @ Mae Hong Son Thailand

7) The NorthenMost Tippest Tip of Denmark : Skagen

8) "SABUY SABUY" Mon Jam @ Thailand

9) "YEOGI"! Huinnyeoul Cultural Village @ Busan

You're warmly invited to explore my other travel blogs, featuring adventures across France, Japan, China, Thailand, Malaysia, and even a few unforgettable cruises.

Our next adventure will take my MR and me back to Northern Europe — a return to Denmark, where familiar streets and cozy corners await us. From there, we’ll carve out a few days to experience the raw beauty of Iceland, with its glaciers, geysers, and windswept landscapes. And as the seasons turn, spring will bring another chapter: a journey to Taiwan with all six of us together. It will be a time for shared meals, bustling night markets, and family laughter echoing through temples and mountain trails.

To stay connected and catch the latest updates, feel free to follow me on social media: Facebook page: followblueginger, Instagram page : followblueginger , TikTok page: bluegingerkaren and Tumblr page :followblueginger.

Thanks for being part of the journey!

"I travel because seeing photos in books and brochures was not good enough for me, To be there, that was everything"